This is my first experimentation with knitwear. Unlike weaved fabric that is rigid, knit changes its shape with every move of the body. I was inspired by this fluidity and the ability of knit to create beautiful drapes. For the first time, I wanted to design something without an actual pattern by draping fabric directly on the form.
I started by creating a mood board of images of draping that I liked. I was particularly inspired by the Ancient Greek apparel and the Buddhist apparel because of its easy construction, which I thought would be interesting to explore in context of zero waste. I draped a couple of versions on a half scale form and experimented with different levels of stretchiness.
Although my initial idea was to use plain white fabric that would highlight the sculptural beauty of the garment, I ended up using a piece of a colorful print knit that I found through Squirrelz app. This app is practically a hub where designers can exchange the materials they no longer need, so they don’t have to throw them away.
Also, I saw this project as an opportunity to utilize Julian Roberts’ Free Cutting technique that implies cutting out the negative spaces of the pattern. This technique allowed me to make the garment in one whole piece with only one side seam. I didn’t have any waste except for the small piece that I cut out from the armhole.
I did a double roll along the neckline and the arm opening, used the pearl stitch for the hem and binding for the armhole. I also covered a small area on the shoulder with beading. The folds in the front and at the shoulder are secured with several hand stitches.