In our studio (fashion) class, we began to talk about the “Americana Culture” in terms of fashion. It opened my eyes as to how fashion, years ago, was not even considered fashion. It all started out with a purpose. DENIM. Blue Jeans were invented by Jacob W. Davis in partnership with Levi Strauss & Co in 1871 and patented by Jacob W. Davis and Levi Strauss on May 20, 1873.
Original Purpose Of “Blue Jeans”: miners & cowboys. Designed for their everyday jobs.
EVOLUTION OF THE POPULARITY OF BLUE JEANS & how it became a fashion STATEMENT.
1950s- Jeans became popular amongst teenagers, mostly underthe “greaser” subculture. This means that jeans were used mostly by the youth of that time who were driven by rock ‘n roll music. Influences at that time were Elvis Presley, Marlon Brando & James Dean.
1960‘s – Beginning of the “Hippie” subculture. Jeans were a statement piece for this era as it (back then) was used as a symbol of rebellion against the norm. A message implying that we are all equal. Individuals wearing the garment piece that was associated with low class miners and worker was a bold message.
1980‘s -punk rock & heavy metal
WHAT STRUCK ME THE MOST
It’s funny how fashion is seen throughout the years. Many years ago, a simple, cheap garment called “Blue Jeans” was made for men who work all day and night, making those trousers distressed and dirty and ripped. A garment associated with low class individuals. Now a days, “blue jeans” is a fashion icon that will never go out of style. It has developed in so many ways. It is ironic how low class men used this, and now high end designers will create pieces that look just like that.
AMERICANA THROUGH MY PERSPECTIVE
Our first assignment for this class was to create a collage that reflected the way we (ourselves) interpret “americana’. Immediately i LOVED this small assignment because not only would i be able to express my view on americana, but I would also be seeing how others view it. Something I found very interesting is that right after each student presented their collage, it came to surface that our perspectives on ‘americana’ culture depends on the individual’s personal style and preferences within fashion.
My Take On Americana:
Through my eyes, the typical, cliché idea of “americana culture’ is the following: Countryside. Horses. Jeans. Plaid Shirts. Hats. Bricks. Red. Washed out colors. Simple. Less is more. Food. Cows. Red. Blue. White. Men. Rough. Cowboys. Blue. White.
For the collage, we had to portray OUR OWN vision of americana. To me, americana culture is: Bad ass. Bold. Not subtle. Vivid. Wild. Sexy. Swag. Chic. Street wear. Tattoos. Alternative. Tight. Skin. Boom. Colors. Bright. Black. Distress. Unique. Weed.. Hip Hop.
Creating & Thinking About Our Collection
After making the collages, we were told that we would develop a collection based on our perspective of AMERICANA, along with the “Blue Jeans’/ DENIM idea that was studied in class.
I am really interested in Street Wear, so I knew that my collection would be leaning more towards that type of style and aesthetics. Street wear is where I plan on doing as a designer, but at the same time, I want to create more elegant, and chic looks that still relate back to street wear. Street Wear Night Garments, if you will. Words that come to mind that would describe my collection would be: CHIC, SKIN. SEX. BODY. FEMALE. ALTERNATIVE. BOLD. YOUTH. I also wanted to make a collage or mood board to be able to convey this idea more. I chose a few images that, when combined in one page, give off the vibe, feel and spirit that I want my collection to have:
After thinking a lot about designs and concepts, something stood out to me that allowed me to focus my collection, and create a purpose for it. I realized most of my views and perspectives on ‘americana’ culture really contrasted the stereotypical ideas of it. So i decided to take that to the next level. In the late 1950’s, Jeans were worn by men, making them appear ‘tough’ and ‘rough’ hard workers. James Dean and Marlon Brando (one of my personal favorites) really inspired me to take a complete shift in this idea I had. I decided to create a collection called “GIRL”.
GIRL by SASHA
“GIRL”, as mentioned above, was inspired by the way Jeans, denim and the idea of ‘americana’ was seen in the 1950’s. I took that idea and image of men being the “workers” who looked all tough and badass, and applied it to women. I want to make women feel sexy and empowered. I want them to feel bold and badass. I completely contrast the countryside idea of americana with the street style I see americana as, and therefore, intend to convey through my collection.
FIT MUSEUM OF FASHION as INSPIRATION
Our class to a trip to the FIT museum since they were showing a DENIM exhibition. This was a GREAT source of inspiration for me and my collection. We learned the entire history of denim and its evolution of something worn out and raggedy to high class and expensive. What stood out to me the most was the various ways denim was used, depending on its time period and the individual who would wear it. These two images includes what was related to my collection. STREET WEAR. I took into consideration the fact that these were only men’s wear, and were very loose. This being said, I came up with the idea of recreating, or redesigning men’s wear within the area of street wear, but designing them for WOMEN. Finding women’s street wear is possible, yes, but it is very limited compared to the vast amount of men’s street wear.
I saw this ad at the museum and it really took my ideas further. This poster inspired me to emphasize the idea of “sexy” in the women’s wear I was going to design. Again, here we see the shit/contrast I plan on emphasize. Men to women.
DESIGNING ‘GIRL’
The first thing I though of was “hoodie”. Hoodies are worn by both men and women, but I personally associate hoodies with BOYS & YOUTH & STREET WEAR. So to me this was a perfect clear start. Nonetheless, I wanted to amplify the “hoodie” and design one for women. I wanted to stay true to my inspiration, which is basically men’s wear in the realm of street style. This being said, I planed to use an actual hoodie for men that was quite large, and modify it to fit my design. That is how the “Hoodie Dress” concept came to surface:
A loose at the top, and tight at the bottom dress made out of a men’s large hoodie. I would incorporate a loose turtle neck to it to add a bit of an edge to the design, a long with loosed sleeves. While making this quick sketch, words began to form in my mind and I decided to write them down:
I was basically set on this idea, until I realized that in no way was I incorporating “denim”. I thought about this design with denim and it simply did not stand out to me. It changed the entire vision I had of it, so I decided to modify it a little. I began to think about brands that to me, really represent the stereotypical “americana” culture. These included Tommy Hilfiger & Ralph Lauren.
Both of these brands really show the country side aspect of “americana” culture, which is what I also seeit as. FOR SOME REASON, every time I see ads for both of these brands, I can only think of a TENNIS PLAYER. To me, what a woman who plays tennis wears isvery preppy. The sport itself, through my eyes is a very preppy sport. This being said, I decided to keep the concept of using a men’s hoodie, but to create a top and a skirt, that resembles a preppy style, but is still overshadowed by the Street wear aesthetic. I decided to make a cropped hoodie, with a high waisted skater skirt. This design includes everything from sexy, bold, street, to preppy, cute and feminine. I added denim on the center of the hoodie in a horizontal way with denim all along the edge of the sleeves, and created a design made out of cut out denim patches for the front of the skirt.
MY FINAL GARMENT
SEE FULL LOOKBOOK HERE:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B551qH5dKzvreHJSYUJscFVYX3M
Relation to seminar reading: “POPULAR SIGNS, Or Everything You Always Knew About American Culture”.
This text conveys the idea that “popular culture, is in fact, our culture.” I relate this reading with my collection because this text is built on many references to the past, and how is has affect our present, in many perspectives. My collection focuses on that idea; how i’m using a garment that used to be associated with only men a couple years ago, and how in modern society, this garment is seen in both men & women. It’s the same concept and it’s one that is worth thinking about; how the past can affect the present, and future, and how our present world and culture will have an effect on future societies.
BEHIND THE SCENES