ARS PROPOSAL

 

In this semester in Advanced Research Seminar: Fashion, I want to dedicate research on “eco-fashion design”. Specifically to answer these following questions in relation to fashion design, I want to research the impact of fast fashion on the economy and how fast fashion is profitable, as well as the effect of fast fashion in ecology and economy, the second life of clothes and who. Other questions posed are what takes care of them, what would happen if fast fashion disappeared from market, how does fashion fashion effect local economies in the USA and in “third world countries” who is buying these clothes, what are people doing with used the clothes, how can clothing be up-cycled if they contain nylon? Another exploration in this thesis would be not how the economy affect fashion and it’s perceived values, and what it means. Does a higher costing garment equate to a high quality garment and vise versa, how does that affect the viewpoint of the consumer.  An interesting point to question as well is the psychology that goes against buying “eco-fashion.”

Another idea that is interesting to explore is the possibility to create a closed looped system of production and the cradle-to-cradle system of production of making garments, especially how would the second and third life of garments take place, and what would it look like. If this sort of system of production is possible, why is it not implemented now, and how could it be integrated in the current way of clothing made? How are modern patterns made in the industry? What is the industry standard of creation of a “production ready product,” is it the way the product is designed from the beginning that should be questioned, or is it just patternmaking itself that should be questioned? What are parameters in “regular” pattern making and why are those normalized but the something like zero waste pattern making not? How much waste is created in the process of creating a garment and how much of it is justified for the aesthetics?

These questions will be investigated in the perimeters pertaining to the fashion-related waste the US produces. Where the gamarments come from should be open to overseas, since, most clothing worn by people in the US are not made in the USA. But, I’ve decided to specify the region of waste production because doing a comprehensive research of general garment waste production seems unreasonably broad. From the extent of my knowledge in the USA, the system of recycling of clothing items is reliant on charities. Since the 1900s Goodwill has existed to take clothing from the wealthy and give to the poor. But it started as a place that people could learn how to sew and mend their clothes. When did these types of charities change to be merely agencies taking care of only post consumer garments. How did that start and how did the system become highly reliant on non-profit systems instead of the government and is the government involved and if they are how so and how much.

 

I suppose in the beginning of the semester I my notion of fashion was “anything can be fashion.” I still believe that, however, my notion of what defines what is fashionable has changed. Like the acceptance of men wearing women’s clothes and women wearing men’s clothes, fashion is ever changing. And how the general public accepts fashion has also changed. “In other words, he’s not a man in transition (that’s been done before, when Riccardo Tisci put a transgender model, Lea T, in his fall 2010 women’s ads) or a man wearing clothing that looks as if it could be worn by either gender.” Gender in fashion in ever changing and fashion doesn’t have to constrict itself to just male and female fashion. Fashion is an ever changing medium of self expression that even it’s construct of age changes. It used to be that, “There’s the disconnect: On the one hand, fashion pays endless aesthetic homage to youth; on the other, it remains firmly in the thrall, and power, of the mature. Even for an industry that has made something of an art form out of holding contradictory ideas at the same time (loving both pelts and pets, for example; showing spring/summer in autumn/winter), this is hard to reconcile.” Though the revolution of older fashion can be attributed to “Add the shrinking spending power of the employment-challenged younger generation, and fashion’s sudden embrace is shaping up to be a bona fide trend.” This basically means that young people don’t have as large of a spending allowance as the older class.
I don’t think this course changed my understanding of fashion, I still think fashion can be anything, rather it’s broadened my horizon of what fashion means. That fashion doesn’t have to just be for people of my age group and women at that. I can also now tell the difference between style, clothes, and fashion. They’re like rectangles and squares, fashion is clothes but clothes are not fashion. Style involves clothes, but style doesn’t mean fashion.
https://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/07/fashion/jaden-smith-for-louis-vuitton-the-new-man-in-a-skirt.html?rref=collection%2Fcolumn%2Funbuttoned&_r=0

Black Fashion Designers

Post images of one object from the Black Fashion Designers exhibition at FIT. Address why you think this designer’s object was included in the exhibition. What contribution does the designer/object make to fashion history? Include information from the lecture, website, and course readings to support your answer.

In a sense, the fashion show was highlighting how Black designers have a vast range of designers: from suits, to reimagination of traditional garments, to skimpy little bunny suits, Black designers have it all and this shows it all. Just like every other designer. Down to struggling with what their identity is and how they fit in as designers in the ever changing ever complex industry. The dress I chose was worn by Michelle Obama. It was designed by Laura Smalls and in the picture it is in the middle. It is the coral midi dress. The design is flattering, conservative yet feminine, colorful but not too loud. It is the perfect respectable dress. The fabric is in jacquard which is like making patterns with thread. The dress represents the marketability of a designer that knows their colors. The coral is beautifully flattering. The pattern is from  leaves and was drawn with thick lines, the line weight reminds me of harlem renaissance drawings. The fabric a good balance of heritage and future. It reminds me of the mother’s bag in Tulloch reading. I also chose an object with one of the mannequins that were in color. We talked about how mannequins  being colored  should be mentioned and how it’s important to talk about them, in class. I disagreed with it then and I disagree with it now. Colored mannequins should be a choice for the garment. For this one in particular the colored one creates a beautiful contrast and it suits the garment. As long as the mannequin suits the garment I see no reason to fuss over it. 

 

wardrobe reflection

Last week, we documented what we wore in seven days. In those seven days a couple of the themes could be seen through my dress. One of which being formality. I enjoy dressing in formal menswear inspired clothes. I don’t like to wear things hyper feminine but I like a little floral and lace here and there. But my feminine elements are balanced out by a hard edge. For example, if i wear a knitted sweater I balance it out with a men’s Levi pant, or if I wear a lace bralette I wear a leather jacket and trousers with it. Nothing I wear is hyper feminine nor masculine, I don’t want to look like a man but I don’t want to look like a girly girl either. I try to walk a balance of the masculine and feminine side of me. I noticed that I wear far more trailered clothes than I expected. I also noticed that, I didn’t buy as much clothes than I thought. The most recent purchase I made was from last summer, the floral jacket. I was trying to look for new things to wear but–there isn’t anything new. In this fast fashion ridden world it was funny that a fashion major doesn’t buy clothes as often as you would expect. The dress practice reminded me of how much I enjoy formal wear, and how much I don’t care about conforming to a boy or girl way of dressing. When I look back at it there are items that are from the men’s section–but I’ll still wear it with pride.

Advertisement and gender

This ad is from Calvin Klein in the 90’s. It features Marky Mark and Kate Moss. When we were given the assignment to talk about Ads this is the one that came to mind first. This ad marks what femininity and masculinity in the 90s looked like. Though both models look edgy; It’s evident that the female body is suppose to be soft and touchable, while the male body is suppose to be hard and ridged. It reminded me of the quote “…gender has been organized not only in binary terms but also through a cultural logic that visualized as feminine.” because much like color association image is also a social construct. I know many woman that are much more ridged and tougher than men and vise versa. The female model looks vulnerable and supported by the male model. He looks dominant and muscle bound and manly. It plays into the social construct of men have to be manly and women have to be womanly but what do those things mean? That a man looks aggressive and a woman looks passive? Is what this ad made me think. Though they are both topless and in a sexually suggestive position, the male model clearly looks to be in charge of the situation. This is still evident in more recent advertisemsents as well, the quesiton of femininity and masculinity comes in the question. What is gender and how and why do we define it. 

Kaiser, Susan B. Fashion and cultural studies. London: Berg, 2012.

Christopher Breward

“Fashion is not necessarily spectacular (though it often conforms to the theory of the society of the spectacle), it can also be domotic, ordinary, mundane, routine and humble. It is the stuff of the ethnographer and the anthropologist”

I chose these two quotes mainly because I could relate to them the most. I related to the first quote immensely. My personal style isn’t outlandish and my design aesthetic isn’t as well. Because of this sometime I have conflicts with design professors about what to make and how to make them. It feels like there is such an emphases on outlandish designs and who can make the weirdest garment. Yes there’s a need to change and growth, however sometime the minimalist and more realistic designs make more sense. More is not more. Thought I also believe that less is not more either, i think there has to be a balance for a good design. But there is always beauty in the more simple, wearable garment. What we see simple and ordinary clothes, in a sense, is a trend of what people are wearing and it will be referenced later on. Like the mom jeans, they were considered the most ordinary of garments and now they are trending. There are blogs and YouTube videos dedicated to finding the “best pair of mom jeans.” I think there’s beauty in what we call, “ordinary clothes” it’s what people choose to wear. I find the ratty t shirt and the naturally worn out jeans more interesting and more informative to someone’s style than that 1500 dollar shirt, with 7 thousand crystals and embroidery, no one dares to drink coffee in. Along with someone’s style it says a lot about the owners living habits and lifestyle.

“Fashion is intensely personal, in the same way that poetry is intensely personal. It is a medium through which personal stories can be told, memories re-lived and futures foretold.”

The second quote I chose because it reminded me of moving to NYC. When I moved to NYC I had to clean out my closet and basically arrived here with just the bare minimum of clothes. It made me aware of what clothes I had to take because, well, I can’t run around naked, and what clothes I couldn’t let go of because of sentimental reasons. Particularly, I had this pair of combat boots that were vintage. They weight about a good five pounds per shoe and in the long run were highly impractical, they were: too big, too long, too slippery, weren’t water proof…etc. But I brought them anyways. They reminded me of the brunch we had that day. The warm summer light and the plate of calamari the waitress dropped on me. I got them from a vintage shop a couple of streets down from that restaurant from a woman cleaning out her closet because she didn’t have enough space anymore. When I told her about the calamari she said “as long as you keep your head high and smile like it’s meant to be, no one will ever notice.” Though I’m sure people did because it was red sauce on a white button down, that anecdote has stayed with me all this time. That boot isn’t just a boot to me anymore it became a story for me. It was stylish but it was also an item that makes me smile, and no Saint Laurent boot can replace that.

 

Game 101 Final

What Do You Look Like? Is the name of the game. It is about how to put on eye make up with a twist. The twist is that make up comes off at the end of the day and the user should just go have fun with make up.

Click to look at the game eyes

Game play: