Seminar- The process of Researching Delaware Indian’s Clothing and Redesigning
For the Studio and Seminar’s neighborhood project, I chose New Port and started to research its history. I found out that Delaware Indians, also called “Lenape”, inhabited in New Port, so I decided to redesign their clothing in early 19th Century. What I did first was going to the library and finding some books that were related to Delaware Indians. Then I found out some interesting features of their clothing in that era. Lenape used glass beads, which they were so interested in, for decorating their clothing.[1] “Men and boys wore breechcloths during warm weather, adding deerskin leggings and robes made of fur and feathers during the cold days.[2] Also, women wore knee or calf length wrap around skirts and fur robes in winter.[3]” All Lenape wore moccasins on their feet, and they sewed the clothes using bone needles, animal ligaments, hair or tough grass.[4] Furthermore, Delaware Indians usually used the raw material, seashells for making their clothes.[5] As for the ordinary coats, shirts and caps, the Lenape did not have a woven cloth.[6]
After the general research, I looked for the pictures of the real garments and I saw a hunting coat that Lenape men used to wear. I thought it would be very interesting if I redesign the hunting coat for women in these days, as I had to express the design into Jean Paul Gautier’s style. After the presentation of Jean Paul Gautier in Seminar class, I found out that he usually designed woman’s wear in a masculine way and a straight-line silhouette for woman’s coat. Also, Jean usually made a trench coat for women’s coat and he liked pleated skirts a lot. Therefore, for my new hunting coat for today’s women, I highlighted a straight line of the shoulder to keep his style. For the skirt. I designed an A-line pleated skirt, which is over the knee that was inspired by Delaware Indian’s very long skirt.
For this redesign project, I didn’t want my designs to be looked as old-fashioned clothing, and I didn’t want people to notice that my designs are came from Delaware Indian’s clothing. Therefore, I tried to redesign them in very modern style but also keep the important features of both Jean Paul Gautier and Lenape’s fashion.
[1] Mark Stewart. “New Jersey Native People.” Capstone Classroom. (2003): 10-24
[2] Ibid
[3] Delaware Tribe of Indians. “Lenape Clothing.” June 16, 2013.
[4]Herbert c. Kraft. “The Lenape or Delaware Indians: The Original People of New Jersey, Southeaster New York State, Eastern Pennsylvania, Northern Delaware and Parts of Western Connecticut.” Seton Hall University Museum. (1996): 54-55
[5] Paul Boyd. “Atlantic Highlands: From Lenape Camps to Bayside Town.” Arcadia Publishing. (2004): 35-37
[6] Ibid