Alejandra Washington
Integrative Seminar: Fashion
My old/new garment inspired by The Dirndl
The Dirndl is the traditional Barbarian costume created during the XIX century traditionally worn as a uniform by working women (servants). Bavaria is located in the Southern part of Germany so the dress has most commonly been used in the Southern area of Germany. During the 1870 the dress became a more fashionable and fancier garment to wear by the Bourgeoisie; the garment throughout time started gaining a lot of popularity in Germany during the 1930s to be worn at festivals and family celebrations, with dark wool or velvet bodice and floral printed apron by girls and young women.
The dress was labeled as “Mother Germany” which represented the female ideal in the country’s eyes. They would have the idea of perfect women as with natural looks, physical strength and moral resilience and eager to work as she takes also care of children.. In other words, a strong woman.
The garment also became really popular in Germany during the 1930s to be worn at festivals and family celebrations, with dark wool or velvet bodice and floral printed by girls and young women. Girls and women were told to proudly wear dirndls for Nazi Party-sponsored occasions and historic celebrations. Except for the rare special occasion or celebration, rural women had not regularly worn the traditional dirndl for decades. The Nazis extensively tried to bring this style back but did not succeed in convincing women to use the traditional costume anymore as in large cities women would want to follow international trends shown in German magazines.
The Dirndl is composed by three parts: a bodice dress, blouse and apron. The dress is designed to flatter the female figure. It is designed to accentuate the female curves as it creates a tiny waist look and woman’s tight waist and emphasizes women’s bosom.
The upper part of the bodice is usually made out by a corset made u with buttons, zippers or ribbons. The blouse is generally very short above the waist, with variated sleeves (long, short or puffed). It can have many different necklines and is usually made of white cotton. Finally, there is the apron. Formerly worn to protect the dress underneath, it is now a purely decorative item. within the apron there is a significance where the ribbon knot is placed. If you tie a knot in the left part of the apron means you are single, if you tie it on the right it signifies that you are taken, knot on the back means you are widowed meanwhile on the front it means you are a virgin.
My design was inspired on the Dirndl as the Germans immigrated to my neighborhood during the 19th century. I based my design mostly on the upper bodice corset part as Jean Paul Gaultier also is obsessed with them and the knot’s meaning. You can see on my design how ribbons are being used on the sleeves part using it on the left side which signifies being single but I used it in a way to signify freedom.
1. Guenther, Irene. Fascist and Nazi Dress. Published 2014. http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/fascist-nazi-dress
2. Lou, Taylor. The Study of Dress History. Published by Carnegie Publishing Lacaster.
3. Phillips, Jacqueline. Vagabond Magazine. Published on 6 October, 2014. http://vagabondmagazine.org/dirndl-also-known-oktoberfest-outfit/