Jean Paul Gaultier

Corset-style bodysuit with garters created for Madonna for the Blond Ambition World Tour, 1990.

​​Known as the enfant terrible of the fashion world, many of Jean Paul Gaultier’s designs were created with rebellion in mind. This duchess satin corset, for example, subverts the notion that undergarments have to be worn under more “ socially acceptable” clothes. The baby pink hue, bows, and hyperfeminine silhouette are reminiscent of the bullet bras of the 1950s, a decade where women are expected to be good wives and the binary notion of femininity was applauded.

Despite the visual resemblance of lingerie from that era, this piece instead symbolizes sexual freedom for women. It was worn by Madonna during the “Express Yourself” sequence of her Blond Ambition World Tour where it was seen peeking under an oversized mens’ suit before she took it off, revealing the corset underneath. This clash between the bound and liberated, the masculine and feminine, as well as gender fluidity are ideas that I would like to explore in my design. The contrast between dark, masculine suiting and hyperfeminine pastel corset shows how women can navigate the spectrum effortlessly, dressed both for the bedroom and the boardroom at the same time.

Vikki Dougan in a backless dress, photographed by Ralph Crane, LIFE Magazine, 1957.

​​In 1950s Hollywood, pin-up girl turned aspiring actress Vikki Dougan was nicknamed “The Back” by the press due to her back-baring dresses she was often seen wearing. Her provocative style was the creation of publicist Milton Weiss, who commissioned three backless dresses for her to wear to attract people’s attention.

This candid image of her walking down the street while passersby are turning their heads makes me can’t help but wander: was she comfortable with the attention she was getting? Was it reductive and objectifying to give her a nickname such as “The Back”? Today, how has the demand to be “sexy” changed for female celebrities? In my design and personal style,  I’d like to explore clothing as a marker of women’s sexuality and how it affects society’s monitoring of women’s bodies.

Anna Nicole and her 89-year old husband, the multi-millionaire J. Howard Marshall at Christmas, photographed by Terry Willows/SIPA Press, PICA Pressfoto, 1994.

A year after securing the 1993 Playmate of The Year title from Playboy magazine, 26-year old Anna Nicole Smith married oil tycoon J. Howard Marshall whom she met in a strip club. This photo shows her embracing her elderly husband, while her son from a previous marriage Daniel Wayne Smith was sitting next to his stepfather.

63 years of age difference between the two resulted in Smith being called a gold digger. However, she did not seem to mind the allegations. She continued being her glamorous and larger-than-life self, a persona that was often portrayed through her choice of clothing and makeup. This picture, for example, shows the two men of the family in somber, black suits. Both men can be considered lacking virility, seeing that one is a wheelchair-bound 89-year old and the other a little boy.

Smith, on the other hand, did not “tone down” her hyperfeminine image as a pin-up bombshell for an otherwise mundane family photo. She was wearing a bright red mini dress with a plunging neckline, putting her legs and cleavage on display. Her look was completed by a pair of red high-heeled shoes, red nails, and red lipsticks–all of them are artifacts of traditional femininity in a color that often symbolizes love, power, passion, and sexuality. This is an idea that I would like to apply in my personal style: that there’s no such thing as “toning down” oneself in order to fit society’s “accepted” idea of what someone should be.

Understanding of Fashion

The term fashion has been wrongly used to define a sense of dressing or to define clothes. Fashion is not just clothing, but it is dressing whose key feature is rapid and continually changing styles. In a way, fashion encompasses change, and in modern societies, there are no clothes that are ever outside fashion. Fashion cannot be described as just a single thing but an essence. It is not limited as it cuts across all cultures and boundaries; it is not limited to the production of clothes. It encompasses the ability to work through a number of ideas, being able to negotiate through subject positions such as gender and navigating through power relations. Fashion is never built on a single idea as it involves various aspects such as borrowing, mixing, changing, and belonging (Kaiser). Fashion is diverse, and it cannot be limited to the simple notion of just making clothes.

Fashion is not limited to one group of people, unlike what the society has made many believe. Different aspects of fashion can be addressed to various people in the community. There are aspects of fashion that are targeted towards diminishing societal standards for minority groups such as homosexuality, ethnic differences, and racial differences (Kaiser). Style can also be used to address some of the controversial topics and issues that face a modern-day society. Issues such as gender inequality and equal representation of all genders in every aspect of society, including leadership. People of all classes, groups, and social classes deserve equal representation, even in fashion.

It is essential to learn the different aspects of fashion as it can be used in various aspects. Fashion can be used as a voice for the voiceless and can speak up for those that are being oppressed in society. One of the changes that I would implement in the fashion industry is the inclusivity of more diverse models. The fashion industry has been known for having the same kind of models in terms of body size, complexion, and the noticeable lack of representation of people with disabilities. I would love to bridge the gap in these areas by including models of different body sizes, different body structures, and have a representation of people with disabilities in the modeling field. Fashion incorporates all, and it should be an area of free expression for all.

​The future envisioned by the dress was mesmerizing with the development of various fabrics and creation methods incorporated into the dress. The perfectly symmetrical dress with various elements incorporated into it made it really amazing to look at. The dress was designed in a parable design. Moreover, it consisted of a lightweight element that does not get damaged when they are stretched. The dress is indicated as having the quality to get rolled, twisted and stowed without getting damaged for easy packing. The dress itself shows effortlessness as it carried out every possible element perfectly. As mentioned in the article presented in the Fashion Revolution every element regarding the creation of the product and material it uses is presented as details surrounding the dress (“Does Your …”). One can see the dress as a message of empowerment as the dress itself is nicely carried out a design that shows authority. As mentioned in the video presented by AEG there is artistry in the design of the dress which fits well with the imaginative thought of people (AEG). The particular dress represented stars that are far above as the dress was shiny and glittering but not too extravagant. The dress is all about capturing attention from people and Parabolas really did capture the attention of onlookers. Dressmaking is an art and that is carried out properly in the Parabolas as it does represent the dress properly with the time. One can see the effort that was put into the creation of this dress as it is well thought and planned with an appropriate concept. The methodology of dressmaking is hard to achieve and putting that particular fact into the dress becomes harder but Parabolas does put that particular fact properly. The textile used in the dress is proper and that has transformed the simple looking dress into an art piece with captivating look.

The advertisement for Chic Jeans makes full use of the body to visually describe its product and makes it look attractive. The whole image showcases the body in a way that they can use to describe what the product is all about. The center of focus is what portrays the message the advertisers want to convey to the viewers. Human consciousness is what creates a perception of an object or a body, and this same idea is used to display the product. The model with one leg on the chair creates a perception associating comfort with the jeans and symbolizing style and glamour.

It is clear that the image creators knew exactly what they wanted for the best possible display of the product. The description of the advertisement could be related to the whole image. The creators consider the body as a perfect display for the product. They consider the body as a source of conveying information to the viewers and selling the product to them. The body represents what the title says,” The world’s best fitting jeans”. The use of the chair as a part of the centerpiece or the body with the model represents flexibility and comfort. “Embodiment may be physical, cognitive or emotional and refers to the processes whereby a person’s life experiences are literally incorporated into their body.” The same fact that the body has different ways of expressing a number of things is taken into priority by the creators. The focus is on using the body to its fullest to serve the purpose of a source of expression.

The whole positioning and posture of the bodies are symbolizing confidence, comfort, and glamour. Clothing is often a vehicle for making bodies appear gendered. Here, the body is used to represent a woman who appears comfortable and powerful. The body symbolizes one half of the society and highlights comfort and sexuality.

Bibliography

Krieger, Nancy. “Embodiment: a conceptual glossary for epidemiology.”

Journal of Epidemiology & Community Health 59, no. 5 (2005): 350-355.

Societies across the world contain various unique cultural value system that in most cases are discriminative to certain members within it. The social ranking of the society in the world tend to uphold certain racial, class, gender, economic, social and religious classifications over others, and as such, continually create avenues through which people can be discriminated upon. In the west the society for most of its historical context has always exalted the male white man over other people women, children, and cripples, are subject to male laws and way of life. Additionally, aspects such as race, wealth, culture and religion play an important role in the male white man’s society. in the west the typical male white man has upheld certain Christian values that in turn tend to sideline all others who do not adhere to them, difference in cultures also play an important role as it further creates an new avenue to uphold discrimination and present a form of separation, class and gender also serve to divide people and the more money a person has the more influence they get with regards to their needs and wants, finally race come in to overall create intrinsic divisions within the society and thus present people with visible means that can be taken advantage of to discriminate. Essentially, intersectionality implies that a person’sopinion matters comparative to your identity and where your identity ranks in the hierarchy of the societal value system.

​Intersectionality concerns Identity politics and in effect overlapping characteristics that predispose an individual to discrimination from various entities within the society. A person exists within the society from different levels, they are described and situated within their community with effect of their gender, age, race, culture, religion, nationality of origin among others. Communities often organize along similarity lines and shun their differences. Kaiser identifies that most people in the society associate and create their identity based on their differences. Essentially cultures are described and thrive on the otherness they give out instead of the similarities they presume. As such discrimination tends to occur in cases where people create different categories of people and rank hierarchy of needs. Most of the frameworks establish within the society will be manipulated to recognize the dominant group and in most cases overlook the lesser groups with regards to social justice. Kaiser posits that “subject positions cannot be totally separate to one another; they intersect in complex ways”. A black woman would therefore be discriminated with regards to first her gender and age within her own community, her religious beliefs will also be part of what create avenues for discrimination within and without her community. She will further be discriminated for her race, gender, age, culture and religion from without her community creating an intersection nature of categorization based on social, political, cultural and economic reasons from which she can be discriminated upon.

​Intersectionality does not entail discrimination but can best be explain under stances of discrimination. Intersectionality therefore entails, categories of identity that help identify a person to another group of people and foster their own individuality within a diverse society.

References

Kaiser., Susan. 2011. “Chapter 2: Intersectional, Transnational Fashion Subjects” Fashion andCultural Studies. Oxford: Berg Publishers.

Stamper, Kory. 2018. “A Brief, Convoluted History of the Word ‘Intersectionality’”. The Cut. https://www.thecut.com/2018/03/a-brief-convoluted-history-of-the-word-intersectionality.html.

     I chose the first aphorism that “Fashion is intensely personal, in the same way, that poetry is intensely personal. It is a medium through which personal stories can be told, memories re-lived and futures foretold” from Christopher Breward’s aphorisms (Breward). This particular aphorism has stated that fashion can be transformed into a platform to communicate with people on a personal level. In many levels, fashion provides the freedom and space for creativity and imagination for each individual to express who they are. From the dressing sense alone, one can know more about the person and what kind of dreams and memories they uphold. I agree with this particular aphorism of Christopher Breward as I too believe the fashion as a signature for the people to express their individualism to people. Fashion can be wielded as a powerful weapon to signify the dreams and memories of the people.

           The second aphorism that I chose from Christopher Breward’s aphorisms is “Fashion does not define. It is instead a term that demands definition” (Breward). I also agree with the second aphorism since it defines and determines the fluidity of the whole fashion field. Fashion can never be constrained in an individual’s or a group’s work; instead, the definitive creative’s work can help to expand the whole scope and definition of fashion. Other than that, fashion is something that we deal directly or indirectly, even in the clothes we wear in our daily lives. It changes over a period of time and can be extremely different from individual to individual. In these regards, each individual is the vessel carrying around the spark of fashion to it, and when the fashion is molded and adjusted with change and alterations from each individual, it shows how each subject has the power to define the fashion. However, it does not work vice-versa since each individual is still subject to personal freedom of choosing what to wear

Hi everyone my name is Olivia, my major is fashion design. I come from Shanghai, China. Have you ever had this kind of idea, every time arrive a new season to feel oneself seem to have no clothes to wear, but clearly have a lot of old clothes of last year in the closet, buy new clothes and have no place to put then how should do. I am really interesting about now we have a lot of clothing brand, They produce a lot of clothes every season. I wonder what these brands will do with these old clothes that can’t be sold.

In the seminar, I am researching on how does fast fashion affect the environment. Through the investigation, I found that fast fashion brands do great harm to the environment. They will sell the over-produced clothes to consumers by way of discount in the season change, but even then they cannot sell all the clothes. Some brands burn unsellable clothes.

In the studio, though I do the research in bridge 3 I see a lot of artist use different format to show how they thought the fast fashion affect the environment I was impressed. Their works can be divided into two categories: one is to let you see how much clothes you waste, and the other is to transform old clothes. However, I want my works to be seen by people, and they will not only be forgotten after seeing them for a while but can be used forever. So I decided to make clothes recycling bin. When others see it, they can throw in what they don’t need or take what they need from it. In the process of making it, I wanted to make it into humanoid garbage can at first, but I failed due to time constraints, so I tried my best to find the garbage can I am using now. Then I made a garbage cover, using all the leftover materials and clothes I did not wear to reorganize it, and also implemented a recyclable purpose. If I have more time to do this project I will make a big trash bin by myself and put more clothes on it.

process photo：

Final piece:

put in public；

Research question: How does fast fashion affect the environment?

In my seminar class, my research is about how fast fashion affect the environment so as we all know the fast fashion brand has a large problem with overproducing. It is a harm to the environment to know a lot of useless rubbish.  So thought my project I want to show that so when other people see my work they can have the same feeling with me or maybe different feeling but they can thinking abut from themselves.

Four artistic:

Fast fashion, Tom Warren, Installation, Size: 48 W x 168 H x 48 in,

This is Fast fashion Installation By Tom Warren, the artist thinks Fast fashion’ and the rise of globalization has created a culture of disposable clothing, exploiting low-wage workers in third world countries and is environmentally unsustainable. In an age of uncontrolled consumerism and devotion to materialism, retail chains have proliferated at an alarming rate over the last decade. This interactive sculpture is made by bundling an accumulation of garments and objects into a boulder-like form. The process of making/ moving it becomes extremely heavy and labor intensive, reflecting the culture of ‘fast fashion’.

This is public art is in Alki beach, Seattle made by  Electric Coffin art studio, all the clothes they used all from Value Village. Value Village Savers, a for-profit global thrift retailer that delivers high-quality, modest apparel, accessories, and household products, applies a repeating business model. This program wants to encourage people to recycle and donate their clothes doesn’t wear.

WHAT A LOAD OF RUBBISH: Craig Reucassel with fashion waste in his ABC television series War On Waste.

The artist shows Every 10 minutes how many clothes we can though away.

Blood Mountain created by Suzie Blake. Suzie fond most of the woman working on the Garment factory and they face a lot of woman rights problem and she knows that fast fashion also damages the environment so she made this Installation.

3 examples

Shirtwaist Waste: Landfill Slice by Joyce Watkins King.

When did jeans become fast fashion? (detail) by Joyce Watkins King.

by Joyce Watkins King.

mood board:

Four material:

Clothes, Trash, Paper bag, any leftover material

Sketch ideal:

So for bridge 4, I want to use people wasting clothes to cut and remade a new dress.

Let me start the question with How does fast fashion affect the environment？ When I see this question I was thinking what some bad thing the brand did to the environment?  I believe that not everyone knows what is happened what fast fashion does make them keeping to buying clothes from them. Fast fashion brand The rate of update is very fast, they keep making a lot of new products for people, While meeting consumer demand, they also have large inventories of their own. Their overproduction also poses a threat to the environment. On the other hand, businesses in the fast fashion industry are very unlikely to adopt a proactive approach to release information for the general public to know how fast fashion will influence the environment.