Integrative Studio 2: Bridge 5, Research Project

The final project is an open project. We were asked to select a topic that we are interested in, create a set of artwork and write a paper about it. I chose to examine the relationship of music and fashion. For my seminar paper, I focused on rock music and fashion. For my studio project, I designed a collection inspired by a series of composers and created one of them. I chose classical because I am really interested in classical music and found that there were not many fashion pieces inspired by classical (there were more inspired by rock and pop).

The outfits are inspired separately by the style of the composers.

1. This jumpsuit is inspired by Lizst. He was a very virtuoso composer and also probably the best pianist in his era. He was famous for astonishing performance and loved fancy outfits.  I used gold and black to demonstrate his flamboyant style, and added some metal rock elements because I think he was a “rock star” at his era. I also add the gold printed faces of “The Scream” by Edward Munch to show my emotions towards his music.

2.This dress is inspired by Debussy. He is a French composer famous for impressionist music. Many of his music has a flowing quality. He used a lot of chords instead of a straightforward melody line.The music is usually not organized in a traditional way but can bring the audience into a specific mood or scene. I used frost blue as the major color and incorporated many fluid decoration on the arms to show the quality of his music. Debussy’s music feels very light, soft and romantic to me. It reminds me of the crystal blue lake and the moist breeze in the summer.

3. This is inspired by Beethoven. Being the bridge of the Classical Era and the Romantic Era, he brought the classical music to a more expressive level by means of harmony, texture, etc. This outfit mimics fire, which is the most prominent thing I feel from his music. Many of his music feels extremely furious and energetic.

4. This one is inspired by Mozart. As a prodigy, his music came out naturally and he was never stuck with ideas. He used just the right amount of notes to elaborate the flawless melody. Although his life had been hard, he always made his music joyful and comforting. I chose red as the major color of the dress in order to demonstrate his passion and talent about music. I focused more on the silhouette and keep the color simple because Mozart’s composing techniques were relatively simple compared to latter composers. The silhouette represent his focus on melody and the relatively simple color represent his preference of pure, minimalist composing techniques.

5.This is inspired by Chopin. He is a composer in the Romantic era and is known as “Poet of Piano”. He added some sophistication to the classical music but overall his style was still pretty elegant and classic, so I used a classic cut of V – neckline. I also chose purple to elaborate this dress because purple demonstrated my feeling towards Chopin: poetic, intricate and a little bit sad.

 

I chose to construct the Liszt Dress after the first presentation. However, as an unexperienced sewer, I soon discovered that it was really difficult to sew the black velvet and chiffon together, and the chiffon is also too slippery and light to provide enough support to the metal chain. After several failed attempts, I decided to change my design. My new design featured the two cones on both sides of the dress and the strips. I maintained the black and gold color scheme and the “scream” motif. Because I felt black and gold are really suitable to describe his flamboyant composition skills, while the “scream” motif could demonstrate the audience reaction when they heard the virtuosic playing of Liszt. The cone shape showed his  sharp, edgy personality and was also associated with the rock star glamour. Because Liszt was the rock star of his time. The golden strips mimicked the keys of piano, as Liszt was most famous with his keyboard pieces.

 

In order to show the connection of the garment and music better, we did another set of shoots at Mannes School of Music. I was a bit worried that the wearer might not sit down with the cones at first, but luckily I found that Emily  could easily sit down with them. I would like to portray a musician of any kind playing with this dress to impress the audience visually.


Generally I think this project is really engaging. Thank you Aaron and Eric! I also learnt a lot from the amazing works from my classmates and the mistakes I made in my design. In the future, I should learn more about the qualities of different fabrics, consider more about the construction before creating the design, and combine my skills and imagination to create better design.

Bridge 5 Reflection

Link

I am Joey majoring in Fashion Design. My first year at Parson has flown by and I still feel really grateful and lucky to be there. The culture here is vibrant and we are always encouraged to express ourselves rather than following the majority.

 

When I was five years old, I made clothes for Barbie dolls and decided that I would be a fashion designer. We can only live our lives once, and I don’t want to cry on a future night regretting that I haven’t followed my passion. That’s why I came here. As I grew up I also developed other interests in the creative fields, such as music, composition, oil painting, photography and literature. I believed that most art forms are inter-related and a good artist shouldn’t be restricted in one field.

 

During my first year at Parsons, I explored more possibilities in the art world and got a better sense about what I liked and what I could do well. My high school didn’t have much work so the workload of Parsons shocked me initially. However, since I was doing something I enjoyed and believed to be meaningful, I soon accepted the workload and gradually started to enjoy the busy feeling. The themes for my artwork vary a lot, but I found that most of them are related to something I was engaged in for a long time or some childhood fascination. I also learnt a lot of skills and working methods that I could use in different courses. For example, I used the research skills from Integrative Seminar when I was writing a paper for Art History; I also used the Adobe Illustrator skills from Drawing and Imaging when I was creating a poster for Integrative Studio. In addition, I also learnt a lot from my classmates and friends. They were all truly creative people and were full of imagination and emotion. They inspired me to always break the norms and think outside the box. What made a project/paper interesting? In my opinion, as long as we were allowed to do it the way we wanted to. It is always interesting to see different, unique approaches to one theme.

 

One highlight from my first year is the Dystopia Trailer I created for Integrative Studio 1 with Alexa and Madeline. It was a complex group project. We were asked to create a completely original dystopia, make a set of tarot cards about it and made a video to demonstrate it. For ours, we created a society where everyone is infused with bugs. Some selfish people keep them gently infused with insects and have perfectly immunity, while other people became human vessels of bug swarms. We played with creepy makeup ideas and experimented with weird sounds such as mac and cheese and noodle sounds. The outcome is kind of cool and creepy in a good way. I got a lot of inspiration from this project because we were building something out of nothing.

 

Another highlight is the final project for my Integrative Studio & Seminar 2. It was an open project and we were asked to make anything and write a scholarly paper based on a theme we were interested in. For Studio, I did a collection inspired by a series of classical composers including Mozart, Chopin, Beethoven, Liszt and Debussy. For Seminar, I wrote a paper about rock in fashion featuring some rock musicians such as John Lennon, David Bowie and Jimmy Page. I wish I could have more time to polish my pieces and I felt that the relationship of fashion and music was truly eternal. The process was a lot of fun and I learnt about how to design based on technical restriction. At first, I tried to make a dress with velvet and chiffon with a lot of metal chains as connection. As a beginner in sewing, I then realized that chiffon was super slippery to sew and it couldn’t provide enough support to the metal chain. So I ended up changing my design while keeping parts of the ideas. I really loved the results and felt happy that I could do something related to my heart.

Moving forward, I wanted to keep doing some designs related to my interests such as the integrative studio & seminar projects. I was also planning to make a public platform to showcase the works from some brilliant young artists in different areas. Because I had friends who had to quit the school because they couldn’t pay for the tuition, and I also had some artist friends who were truly talented but lived in poverty. I think there should be a way to connect art and the market better, and I will keep working on this.

Integrative Studio 2: Bridge 4 Work in Progress

For the studio final project, I am going to design a collection inspired by five composers: Mozart, Chopin, Liszt, Beethoven and Debussy.

This one is inspired by Mozart. As a prodigy, his music came out naturally and he was never stuck with ideas. He used just the right amount of notes to elaborate the flawless melody. Although his life had been hard, he always made his music joyful and comforting. I chose red as the major color of the dress in order to demonstrate his passion and talent about music. I focused more on the silhouette and keep the color simple because Mozart’s composing techniques were relatively simple compared to latter composers. The silhouette represent his focus on melody and the relatively simple color represent his preference of pure, minimalist composing techniques.

This is inspired by Beethoven. Being the bridge of the Classical Era and the Romantic Era, he brought the classical music to a more expressive level by means of harmony, texture, etc. This outfit mimics fire, which is the most prominent thing I feel from his music. Many of his music feels extremely furious and energetic.

This jumpsuit is inspired by Lizst. He was a very virtuoso composer and also probably the best pianist in his era. He was famous for astonishing performance and loved fancy outfits.  I used gold and black to demonstrate his flamboyant style, and added some metal rock elements because I think he was a “rock star” at his era. I also add the gold printed faces of “The Scream” by Edward Munch to show my emotions towards his music.

This dress is inspired by Debussy. He is a French composer famous for impressionist music. Many of his music has a flowing quality. He used a lot of chords instead of a straightforward melody line.The music is usually not organized in a traditional way but can bring the audience into a specific mood or scene. I used frost blue as the major color and incorporated many fluid decoration on the arms to show the quality of his music. Debussy’s music feels very light, soft and romantic to me. It reminds me of the crystal blue lake and the moist breeze in the summer.

This is inspired by Chopin. He is a composer in the Romantic era and is known as “Poet of Piano”. He added some sophistication to the classical music but overall his style was still pretty elegant and classic, so I used a classic cut of V – neckline. I also chose purple to elaborate this dress because purple demonstrated my feeling towards Chopin: poetic, intricate and a little bit sad.

For the final , I will create the Liszt garment and show the rest as sketches after some adjustments on the design. I will probably make a slideshow or video to introduce the composers’ styles and how those are related to my design while showing the photos of the collection.

Int Studio: AD – Art

I am planning to make a series of garments inspired by some music. One of them is Twelve Variations on Ah vous dirai-je Maman (Twinkle twinkle little star). I chose the word “twinkle” because I felt that was the best word that could show my feeling towards that piece. It was shining, pure and playful. I added facial expressions and musical instruments to show the relationship of music and the garment series. I also want to incorporate the sign of eyes into my design, and”twinkle” also means “blink”. Therefore, I added an eye in the letter “e”. The color of the ad shows my feeling towards the music, and I am very likely to use them as the main colors for the garment series. I used color pencils, markers and pencils to create this ad.

 

After the class critique, I realized that I have misunderstood the assignment. We actually needed to use real objects to make the ad. In the second version, I used star-shaped confetti to build the text, and used the score of the music as the background. The colorful confetti shows the playfulness of the music, and its shiny quality demonstrate the “twinkle” nature of stars. I also used colored pencil to lightly outline the text to make them easier to read.

Integrative Seminar 2: Bridge 2 Analysis of the Pillola Suite of Lamps

Joey Huaiyu Dong

Professor Eric Wilson

PUFY 1011 Int. Seminar 2: Fashion

22 February 2017

Analysis of the Pillola Suite of Lamps

When I first came across the “Energizing the Everyday” exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt Museum, the Pillola Suite of Lamps immediately intrigued me. This exhibition consists of gifts from the George R. Kravis II Collection. It mainly showcases day-to-day objects with great design that enhances people’s lives at home, workplace, as well as during travel and leisure. The objects are organized in various groups, according to their theme, time period, and materials. Together as a whole, a strong connection across time and geography is well demonstrated. We can clearly see how design and technology enhance the society to move forward and improve people’s lives.

The suite contains five lamps in total. The lamps all have the same oblong shape of prescription pill while they are much bigger than life-size. The upper parts of the lamps are white, while the lower parts have different bold, saturated colors: yellow, red, blue, emerald green and white. The lamps are fully covered by a layer of thin, transparent ABS plastic and acrylic and all have a small, transparent base made of plastic as well. The plastic material on the surface demonstrates a beautiful smooth and reflective quality, and creates a beautiful light outline for the shadow. In the exhibition, the lamps were bent in different angles and were casting rhythmic shadows of varying levels of darkness. According to the captions in the museum, these angles demonstrated the haphazard look of pills accidentally dropped. There is a vertical line made up of little circles on the lamps and a white cord attached to each lamp. The suite is innovative, clean and undeniably elegant.

One big question that I had when looking at this object was whether it was designed for home use or just for display. For this essay, I imagine that it is placed in a home in the late 1960s. The owner is probably a white male among the affluent or middle class youth. He is from Italy since I pick 1960s when the suite of lamps first came out.  He probably loves hippie culture, is not a main-stream person at that time and is proud of being different. He is ironic about consumerism and the mass produced modernism design and was very interested in the “anti-design movement”. He listened to the Beetles, took drugs and embraced the old slogan of free love and sex.

In my opinion, this suite of lamps is very important in the owner’s house. On one hand, it functions as lamps and is used on a daily basis; on the other hand, it also symbolizes the belief against consumerism and the design norms of the owner. These lamps are representative of Italy’s anti-design movement from of the mid-1960s and 1970s. According to Sparke, the anti-design movement is a protest against the design formalism which characterized the Italian design movement in the early 1960s.[1] It is a post-modern critique of modernism. As Martland analyzed, “When modernism became established and henceforth the new generation of artists considered it to be ‘academic’”[2] .The designers of these lamps, C. Emanuele Ponzio and Casare Casati, are clearly among this “new generation of artists”. And the suite of lamps must also be placed in the home where the owner is bored with the “beautiful” modern design of dull colors. Because the original idea of modern design gradually became a marketing tool in Italy. Object were mass produced for mass consumption for mass media. “Anti design” movement was among the post modernism range and was idealistic and ironic at the same time. This suite of lamps demonstrates the features of anti design very well.

The pills are extremely oversized which links to the ironic scale distortion of anti design. The design shows a deliberate “bad taste” by its straight forward pill look and minimalistic elements. There is barely anything other than the necessary base and cord attached to the lamps. The color palette is also bold and striking. While modernism embraced dull colors which mainly consists of black, white and grey, post modernism usually go with emphasized saturated colors in order to show the opposition.

Another important thing I noticed is the design focus: drugs. The designers were apparently trying to address some social issues rather than focusing solely on the pure functional value of the lamps. The imagined owner of the lamps might be a drug addict or super into the rebellious mystical hallucination of drugs. In 1960s, drugs (marijuana, LSD and other recreational drugs) forms an important sub culture. It was a time when the typical bad connotations of drugs are shifted towards the middle. Drug abuse became extremely popular among psychedelic rock musicians such as Pink Floyd and the Beetles. Many people at that time are unaware of the danger of drugs. In my opinion, this Pillola Suite of Lamps is criticizing people’s dangerous fantasy towards drugs. However, it might be portrayed as a celebration of drug hallucination by its owner at that time. It is very ironic to imagine a hippie drug addict was staring at the lamps, feeling proud of its unique appearance, while the designers were actually trying to criticize him. In addition, this suite is also culturally channeled to other pill inspired pop artwork including works of Claes Oldenburg and Andy Warhol. They all depicted pills in an oversized, humorous and sarcastic way.

To conclude, the Pillola Suite of Lamps was important in its cultural context and demonstrated both functions and symbolism. It showed support to the anti-design movement against consumerism and the design norms in Italy and ironic attitude towards the drug subculture.

Bibliography

  1. 1. Sparke, Penny. “The Straw Donkey: Tourist Kitsch or Proto-Design? Craft and Design in Italy, 1945-1960.” Journal of Design History11, no. 1 (1998): 59-69. http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316163.
  2. Martland, T. R. “Post-Modernism: Or What’s Become of Us, Tarzan?” The Antioch Review49, no. 4 (1991): 587-98. doi:10.2307/4612467.

 

 

Bridge 2, Context, Final Piece

I created a painting using acrylic for Bridge two. The inspiration of this painting came from the Pillola Suite of Lamps in the Cooper Hewitt Museum.

There is a ballerina dancing with the lamps. She is in the center and her arms and legs are tied up like a puppet. The lamps are lightened up and the light were represented by abstract swirls. I used a palette knife to paint  this in order to create a thick texture and undiluted color effect. I also juxtaposed some Roy Lichtenstein’s speech bubbles at the connection of the cord and the lamps.

The bright color and the collaged speech bubbles help to relate to the time period, which is 1960s. I chose a woman as the central figure because its a time when women started to protest for their rights. The dancing figure who is tied up shows that people are trying to break free while there are still restricted. There were a lot of civil rights movement going on,  such as the women’s march, the protest of the African American. The dancing figure, together with the swirls shows that people are feeling lost and excited at the same time.

Jiro Dreams of Sushi Response

I chose the scene When Jiro is brushing the sushi with soy sauce. The brushing seemed to be very simple to me at first. However, after watching both Jiro and his younger son brushing the sushi, I found it was actually a complex art. I knew very little about sushi but I could still tell that Jiro brushed the sushi much better than his younger son. The way the hand holding the sushi, the speed of brushing, the amount of soy sauce, the temperature of rice…everything looked simple but actually took years to get to the “perfect level”. And according to Jiro Ono, no one knew what was perfect, so the only thing he could do is to repeat the move for a lifelong time to make it better and better.

How much effort does it take to become a expert? I think the answer varies for different occupations. The key is we need to be prepared to dedicate the whole life to the field. Becoming an expert requires strong perseverance and talent. A shrimp dealer in the film mentioned that people nowadays wanted an easy job with lots of money and free time but never thought of building their skills. This challenged me to think my own persistence. Before dreaming about success in grandiose form, I should keep doing the “simple” thing to perfect my skills. Without good skills, we can never demonstrate our talent. As a student, I really have to immerse myself into my major and always strive to elevate my craft. I should always have a yearning to achieve more and be prepared to dedicate my whole lifetime to my work.

Integrative Studio & Seminar 2: Bridge 2, Context (Part 1) Field Trip

Pillola Suite of Lamps

Dated 1968, this suite of lamps was designed by Cesare Casati and Emanuele Pozio and manufactured by Nai Ponteur. It was made of molded methacrylate, plastic and acrylic. It is representative of Italy’s anti-design movement of the mid-1960s and 1970s, and is also related to the pop culture.

When I first came across the “Energizing the Everyday” Exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt Museum, this suite of lamps immediately intrigued me. The lamps were bent in different angles and were casting rhythmic shadows of varying levels of darkness. According to the caption in the museum, these angles demonstrated the haphazard look of pills accidentally dropped. The designers showed their sense of humor there by associating the angles with some typical connotations of drugs: perilous, rebellious and fun. The lamps have the oblong shape of prescription pills while they are much bigger than life-size and have different colors. The bold, simple and bright colors made me think of the Emerald Pill by Claes Oldenburg and most works of Andy Worhol. The lamps are apparently in conversation of pop culture and consumerism. The surface and the base are made of thin transparent ABS plastic and acrylic, demonstrating a smooth, reflective quality. The surface also creates beautiful light outlines for the shadows.  Through the bright color palette and the materials, it seems that the designers are critiquing the mass culture which is mass produced by mass consumption by mass media. The lamps also remind me strongly of Moschino’s capsule collection. Because they both use prescription pills as the main theme and achieve rebellious and playful visual effects.

This suite is definitely something I would like to have in my home, but I am still curious about its context. Was it designed for home use or just for display? I believed that this unique and controversial suite would communicate very contrasting values in different contexts.

10 Questions

What is Italy’s anti-design movement? How did it affect the history of design?

Why is this suite representative of Italy’s anti-design movement?

What are the pros and cons of plastic in product design?

From the mid-1960s to 1970s, what are the connotations of prescription pills? Are they positive or negative?

Is there any difference about the connotations of pills between Italy and the United States?

Where did Casati and Pozio get the inspiration of this design? Are they inspired by any other artist?

Why were these colors, shapes and materials particularly chosen?

How does it related to consumerism and drug abuse?

What is the context of this suite in the designers’ perspective? Is it for home use, bar use or just for exhibition?

As the lights can move in varying angles, how do different angles convey different meanings or humor?

 

Deconstruction Project Final

I construct a dress, a mask, a snake bracelet and a choker (which is connected to the dress)

The original piece.

 

A detailed shoot of the accessories.

The mask can be loosened.

Part of the back is connected by strips.

Connected by thread and safety pins.

Makeup ideas: Smokey eye, red lips, punk.

Design & Photo & Hand-sewn &Edited by Joey Huaiyu Dong.

Thanks Hairuo for modeling.

Watching / Writing “Deconstructivist Architects”

I found this scene to be particularly interesting. It is a design including many roads. People can drive or walk on these roads to get to various platforms. It doesn’t look like a conventional building, but it is more interactive than a conventional building. The gaps and roads on different length provide a futuristic quality to it.

In my opinion, both architecture and fashion are about creating things. A successful architect or fashion designer should be brave enough to experiment with new materials (like use fabric for architecture and plastic for fashion) and to break the norm. Deconstructionism is not a revival of modern style, it is a brand new style featuring break the conventions and consumerism.