Integrative Studio 1: Memory – “Pierre Cardin: Future Fashion” – Brooklyn Museum
The Brooklyn Museum launched a retrospective of the innovative French designer Pierre Cardin, and my studio class had the opportunity to attend a guided tour of all of his avant-garde looks from the ‘60s, ‘70s, and ‘80s. Over 170 different pieces—ranging from sketches to fashion pieces to “couture” furniture—tell the tale of Cardin’s illustrious career.
Surprisingly, Pierre Cardin was born outside of Venice, Italy, in 1922, but his family moved to France when he was 2. At 14, he apprenticed with a local tailor in Saint-Étienne, and after serving in the Red Cross during World War II, he went to Paris. There, he worked for legendary couturiers House of Paquin, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Christian Dior before opening his own atelier in 1949. His early designs included smart, mod-ish skirt suits favored by Jackie Kennedy and luxurious swing coats with elaborate origami folds.
Then came the 1960s: rock ’n’ roll, multiculturalism and the space race. As an avid sci-fi fan since his youth, Cardin embraced modernity. His 1964 collection, for example, envisioned a kind of space utopia, where boys and girls dressed largely the same, in stretchy full-body leotards layered with geometric-printed, bum-grazing tunics, low-heeled boots, and metal necklaces and pendants. This was my favorite part of the exhibit for sure! Especially as there was a tv accompaniment that played a Star Trek episode to illustrate the similarities between Gene Roddenberry’s vision with Piere Cardin’s.
What amazed me the most was that Cardin is still clearly pushing boundaries, and is not ready to retire anytime soon. The exhibit even includes recent designs, including his LED-lit “illuminated” ensembles, as well as extravagant ballgowns with flying-saucer tiers.