Mood Board:
Research:
Exploratory Sketches:
Process Swatches:
Final:
Presentation:Crafting Fashion_ Basket Woven Flannel-2i70ii6
Artist’s Statement:
I have noticed a recent trend in fashion towards materiality. Therefore, in my “Crafting Fashion” assignment, I chose to employ the iconic garment of the lumber industry and blue collar community, and reinvented it using the staple materials of such community: lumber and wool. During my research of the basket weaving craft, I came in the presence of a video of basket weaving with yarn and decided to apply that style to my assignment because of the texture of the medium, which better resembles that of the iconic garment. Wool is known for its ‘flyaways’ that are often associated with softer, comforting objects. Even though my creation is more rigid than conventional flannel, it provides the same soft texture and waspy-haired appearance.
The simplicity and accessibility of the materials in my product, determined my project. Once I had the medium, I simply experimented with different sized dowels (length and width) and differing sized twine. The results were surprising. The thin, waxed twine created a beautiful intricate pattern with the ultra thin twigs. However, I found I received a similar result using a thicker media, such as yarn with thin and thick dowels. My goal was to make the fabric as attractive/intricate as possible for a project being execute within two weeks.When I experimented with popsicle sticks I found issues with the thickness and shortness of the medium. This would complicate the pattern making process as well as weaken the intricacy of the design pattern. Therefore I chose to use red yarn and different sized dowels for the entire piece. The differing sized dowels created an complex pattern of coils that not only quickened production, but beautified the piece. I employed the coiling technique of basket weaving, traditionally done using flat coils and sticks of bamboo, which takes wool twine and wraps it around wooden twigs using the ‘around and over’ pattern. In researching various plaids, the print, and flannels, the fabric, I discovered the versatility of the printmaking industry. The most widely known plaids are gingham, bison plaid, tartan plaid (often associated with Scottish culture, as they are often used in the production of traditional Scottish kilts), houndstooth plaid (which came into chic culture in the 80s), tattersall plaid, and Madras plaid. I began to think which was most characteristic of American culture, and I came to the conclusion that role was played by bison plaid which has been the staple clothing of lumberjacks and rednecks alike for decades. In addition the wide set gingham like style would be the easiest to replicate through unconventional craft and medium. After making the patterns out of differing sized dowels, cut using the bandsaw, I would weave the yarn in order to create a unique pattern. Next I work on mimicking coloration. Buffalo plaid is a large scaled gingham with distinct wide paneled black, red, and grey squares.
In order to display this in my work, I become my own printing press: I stain every other column and row of the top layer of the fabric using sharpie and charcoal. At the overlap of the tinted columns and rows, there is a thick black square created, in contrast to the lighter shaded squares in adjacency. Lastly, I would connect the back and front panels through joint side seams; the sleeves to the armholes; the buttons to the placket; and the collar to the neckline, using hardy embroidery thread. My project expresses my interest in experimentation of materials and creation of innovative fabrics.
