Fashion Studies#1: Aphorisms

Christopher Breward’s Forward to Fashion Studies is a nice introduction to the arguments and mindset around fashion in the academic context. The following aphorisms or “manifestos” were meant to summarize fashion and its effects on society in quirky short phrases. Two phrases in particular that resonated and challenged my understanding of fashion are below:

“Fashion is made manifest in material forms. It demands study in the same way that ancient artifacts are made meaningful by archaeologists: through careful excavation.” 

I understood this proverb to say that fashion is clearest when in it is understood from its material form versus its conceptual form. Because of the complexity of fashion as a topic, it should be studied through what is tangible, similar to how we study ancient artifacts, both should be treated with care.

I have come to challenge this “manifesto” on many counts. Firstly, it should be noted that the artifacts that decorate most museums are derived from european countries that were the “winners” in most wars and historical silencers of ethnic groups. Therefore, it can be concluded that the story told from fashion is selective, only shining light on a few, mostly those who could afford to interact with it. Another observation is that when we study fashion historically, it follows the european flow of ideas, naturally, as those are the highly acclaimed and greats of this consumerist history; but when it comes to inspirations for fashion, especially in this decade, its derived from ethnic groups, who’s history isn’t being taught in the classroom therefore its seen as brand new and creative in some cases.

The second aphorism, ” Fashion is intensely personal, in the same way that poetry is intensely personal. It is a medium through which personal stories can be told, memories re-lived and futures foretold.”

I understood this proverb to say that fashion gives insight to the self, almost in the same context as poetry. Its a means of communication for personal stories, reliving memories, and foretelling futures.

I have some critical points in response to the second manifesto above, especially as a Lang student. Firstly, I do agree that fashion is personal and can give insight into one’s identity. In our society, you have the ability to judge a person based on their wardrobe, you can also conclude a persons socioeconomic status, aesthetics, and race to an extent. The argument that I have, opposes the reference to poetry, in the sense that poetry has more control than fashion. In poetry, you can chose every word, placement, tone, AND can follow up with a statement of purpose or explanation for your work. Fashion observation in most interactions, occurs in passing, commonly in the street, where you can’t stop every person that looks at you, and explain why your wearing and how you want them to think about your outfit. In other aspects, I do agree with the proverb, there are some garments and arrangements that invoke emotions and memories that are extremely unique to me.

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