My father is a multi-talented artist, a camera enthusiast, and a traveler. When my father turned 20, he discovered a passion for language and history—specifically Chinese. Being in a foreign country meant learning a whole new culture while adapting to a new study environment. Adapting to a new environment also meant understanding and appreciating the culture’s food, fashion, etiquette, and more. The appearance was, however, the hardest transition for my father. When my father went back to Seoul for winter break, his father gifted him with a leather bomber jacket before his departure, just like the ones the pilots wore during World War 2. He has always wanted to own a leather jacket because he owned a motorcycle, and it was only right to pair it with a classic black leather jacket. However, this jacket was coated with sheepskin, which added another layer of character and provided warmth in the winter. My father loved how the leather bomber jacket’s function was so practical during cold weather yet never went out of style no matter how many years he wore it. However, his lack of knowledge in maintaining the quality of leather products led to swift destruction. Just like how the design team in WW2 improved their designs of the jacket through failures, my father slowly learned the ins and outs of taking care of the jacket through realizations.
The fur in the leather jacket, however, was an influence from the World War 2 pilots. As technology advanced, cockpits were beginning to narrow in size, which required a more compact garment for the pilots but still kept them warm. A US Army Aviation Clothing Brand in 1917 was the first to invent the silhouette as what we call a “bomber jacket.” After many variations of designs and trials and errors, the pilots realized the jackets began to freeze with their sweat at a low temperature at a high altitude. Due to poor insulation and the lack of design execution from the fighter jet designers, Aviation Clothing decided to use sealskin and horse leather as the outer layer of the jacket. This prevented the open-air coming in the pilot’s body and, for extra warmth, added sheepskin throughout the full lining. They named this jacket the A-2 and also added a zipper, which was not an option in the previous design. As time progressed, they wanted to make the jacket more functional. The B-15 was then invented, which had more zip pockets in areas where small tools and personal belongings. Leather straps were also attached as part of the jacket to stabilize their oxygen masks.1
My father’s leather jacket has a full lining of fur throughout the whole jacket and creates a big collar that is also visible throughout the ends of the jacket. The special about this jacket that differentiates it from the other jacket is the big sherpa cuff on each end of the arms. It looks like my father folded the jacket on purpose, but he said, “the jacket originally came as it is, and it added more comfort rather than the rigid leather seams,” my father says. These small details made my father stand out amongst the international crowd in Beijing and felt proud that it was given by his father. As time passed, the garment became stylized by the fashion world, where it was easily digestible and appealing by everyday audiences. It became a recognized fashionable element in the 50s as Hollywood introduced the garment and was worn by stars such as James Dean.2 The jacket also portrayed a masculine emotion as the collar was especially exaggerated as the shoulders were made to seem bulky.
“Because the jacket was made of leather, it was hard to wash it frequently because I did not have enough money in college to take it to a dry cleaner, so I often just sprayed much cologne which probably just ruined the leather more.” – Jaedon Um. My father was not a fashionista in any means, which meant he poorly looked after his clothes. His lack of knowledge in maintaining the leather resulted in the leather losing its essence and quality. “During Beijing’s winters, it used to snow very much. I would often come into my dormitory soaked, but I remember never thinking about cleaning up my jacket and just laid it by my desk.” When leather is not treated with care, it can start to mold once large amounts of water begin to soak the jacket. As much as my father adored and cherished the jacket, it also required another part, which was handling the aftermath with caution and care.
In conclusion, my father’s leather bomber jacket is a piece of garment that was created and designed by learning through failure and malfunctions during the war. Just like my father’s clumsiness and his lack of knowledge in taking care of his prized possession, he now takes care of each of his garments very dearly. The jacket helped him overcome the cold in the winter, just like the pilots during WW2 and carries a special meaning for my father.
