I started out with the intention to replicate the bib-like structure and the criss-cross straps often incorporated into the lederhosen . With the focus on these two traditional aspects of the cultural garment, I wanted to create a modern dress that subtly utilizes these features from the Bavarian culture. First, I created the yoke using a subtle curve to mimic the rounded bib on the lederhosen. I changed that from my original sketch because it referenced the traditional lederhosen more clearly. I then created two straps and fit it around my shoulders to find the exact length, then added them into the yoke on the back. I made a pattern for the bodice pieces to match up with the curves of the yokes and slashed and spread them to gather. The front had a curve so I had to distribute the width between the pieces. I added two inches in between each piece and drew the new pattern on muslin. The back was easier because it has a straight seam at the top so I added the width from the beginning. I gathered the bodice pieces to match the width of the bodices. Then, I sewed the bodice pieces to the yoke pieces that they matched up with and then sewed up the side seams. I added pockets by measuring where I wanted to place them while fitting the garment on myself and then opening up the side seams to add them in. For a closure, I added as 12″ invisible zipper and a hook and eye on the side seam. I think that it is important to follow the steps of creating this garment in a concise way. During the muslin process, I sometimes did certain things in a backwards way. I would note to make the pockets and the hem before I sew the side seams because it was counterproductive to seam rip and add and put back together. Also, I will be changing the yoke by curving the bottom more and adding a little more length to it on the front so the curve is more pronounced. I also think the fabric that I am leaning towards will create an even more voluminous silhouette that will lends itself towards the original design and vision.
Original silhouette garment design
Lederhosen silhouette inspiration
Final Muslin Version:
detail of criss-cross straps on back of garment
