In week two we were challenged to utilize 45 min in Chinatown to take 200 photos, and purchase materials, which will be utilized to create a garment of our design, inspired by chinatown.
Construction:
To begin constructing my garment, I gathered some of the materials in Chinatown. The materials gathered there, like the fan, buttons and scarves were the ones that initially inspired my garment. After creating the sketch of my garment on the model, I realised the need for black leather, as well as a black stretchy mesh. I gathered the rest of the materials I needed from both a leather shop, and Mood fabrics. Once I was back in the studio, I was able to begin constructing your garment. In light of the lack of an Industrial sized bobbin, machine sewing was out of the question. I draped the scarves on the mannequin, paying attention to pin where I would later hand “tack” sew. I maneuvered the fabric to drape as I wanted it, and made sure to measure my actual model in order to make the skirt the correct length. I tacked the basic scarves to each other, creating a base form for the general shape, and then began to place the leather. I had previously cut the base of the fan off, and placed the fan where I wanted it, draped over the shoulder like some type of military gear. As I pinned these fans on, I also pulled the leather sheet and pinned it to the front of the mannequin. I used a piece of chalk and outlined the general shape that I wanted the top in, allowing myself about a half inch of seam allowance. Once the top piece of leather was cut as I wanted it, I put in the darts in the front, and draped as well as cut the back piece of mesh. I folded over and “hemmed” the leather piece going down the spine, and attached it to the back mesh with hot glue. Once all of these components were together, I used velcro to attach to the inside of the tops, where the two pieces of fabric met, this would allow for easy removal for the model to put the garment on. I hemmed all of the material, and hand sewed a couple hook and eye clips into the skirt in order for it to close over the model. Once all of this was done, and the basic garment was created, I embellished it using hot glue to stick the buttons on near the top of the neck piece and the bottom of the top. I went back through my garment and tried to touch up any unseamed edges, using red paper and hot glue.
initial model sketches
drawn garment design
draping of the skirt
draping of the skirt
Inspiration:
I went into the Chinatown garment design challenge hoping to be inspired by the materials I found. I was overwhelmed by the rich culture and history I saw in chinatown, and was inspired by the reality that Chinatown is a smaller, less authentic version of China. This idea ultimately lead me to research more about the history of the immigrants who came from China and created a smaller China within the city. This idea of Immigration and Migration perfectly tied into the theme of History that I was assigned. I was able to bargain for a bucket full of golden buttons, as well as purchasing, two red, silk scarves, which had seemingly traditional patterns, and finally a fan printed with a motif of people in and around their homes.
History:
The history of bees in chinese culture is one of industry. The chinese immigrants reminded me of bees who, when the queen is taken from their nest, move with the queen and create an entirely new hive. The immigrants were able to leave there country behind, and journey over seas, following the promise of a better life, much like that given to the bees by their queen. The “clusters” created by bees who swarm to create new hives, reminded me of the cluttered silhouette of dust. The correlation to the dust is further symbolised by the gold buttons on the garment. The buttons were meant to represent each immigrant’s life, and look somewhat like bees clustering around the top and middle of the garment, much where dust would naturally collect.
