Grace Ling Hui
History of Fashion
Section B
25 September 2017
Image 1
Basic background information:
Portrait of Louise Brooks, wearing Jean Patou dress for Prix de Beauté directed by Augusto Genina, 1930. Photo by James Abbe.
Why?
I am interested in how the image existed from a film and how it was part of a curated narrative. Louise Brooks being an iconic figure was also powerful in the late 20s with the topics of sexual freedom, female emancipation and decadence. I am drawn towards the way she is posing, staring straight into the camera, and the choice of lighting by the photographer. It seems almost hostile, yet it draws you in.
Relationship to my design work and/or personal style:
I do enjoy fashion with an elegant and romantic style, but I am more interested in how that dress played a role in defining the relational social dynamics women presented themselves in. My works often explore the notion of human relationships and I am hoping that I can find out more about that with regards to this image.
Image 2
Basic background information:
Illustration by Pierre Brissaud, titled “Tu Vas Trop Vite, Maman”. The designer is Gazette du Bon Ton , No.9, Plate 71, 1921.
Why?
I am interested in the role of illustration in relation to fashion at that time. I am also drawn towards the bright colors and seemingly slender bodies. I enjoy the effortless movement that is depicted with the two people who looks like a mother and a child.
Relationship to my design work and/or personal style:
I like sleek and simple styles and I am interested to see how the woman’s style of that time is also translated into children/youth clothing.
Image 3
Basic background information:
The model in the image is Bettina Graziani, the ‘Queen of Paris’. She is in the Place des Voges, wearing Fath’s afternoon dress, 1950. Photo by Willy Maywald.
Why?
I am drawn to the way she is posing and the way the image is photographed outdoors. It seems that up till the 50s or even now, woman are portrayed to pose in a seemingly sensual way, and in the image, it is juxtaposed by the well tailored buttoned dress that was once considered “utilitarian”. And although the corset is gone, that belt that she is wearing seems really tight and does not look the most comfortable.
Relationship to my design work and/or personal style:
Although this style is still elegant, it is pretty different from my usual style that I would prefer. I would usually go for a softer touch, maybe with a lighter fabric and a less “utilitarian” looking outfit.
