This is a campaign featured on Purple Magazine Purple #31 The Paris issue for Berluti Spring Summer 2019. The campaign was photographed by Andreas Larsson and Paul Hameline is the model for this campaign. On the left image, he is wearing a multicolor silk shirt with black lambskin leather trousers and “shoehorn” necklace by Berluti and on the right image, he is wearing black cotton sleeveless shirt and trousers by Berluti. In Susan Kaiser’s book Fashion and Cultural Studies, she stated that “in the context of euromodernity, gender has been organized not only in binary terms but also through a cultural logic that visualizes fashion itself as feminine.” However, this Berluti campaign subverts the hegemonic gender norms by showing menswear that can also be stylish and lavish as women’s fashion. Even though Berluti is a menswear brand, it portrays androgynous imagery by incorporating feminine elements to the designs and putting feminine makeup and hair. For example, silk is usually not used for menswear especially with colorful patterns because of its soft and fluid texture. The model is wearing a necklace that resembles a choker which is mostly worn by women. His curled hair, red lipsticks, and thick eye make up make him look more like a woman. Also, the posture of the model makes him look androgynous. On the left image, he is slightly leaning his body to the left with his hands in the pockets as if he was accentuating the curves of female body. His delicate postures give a seductive impression which goes against the hegemonic masculinity in men’s fashion.
Kaiser, Susan. 2012. Fashion and Cultural Studies. London: Berg.