How do you interpret the object’s use of color?
This garment is a fully black piece with a cage crinoline around the hips and legs of the model. In this piece, black is being used for a stark contrast against the white space. It could also be making a statement about the seriousness of the piece. If the bodice and crinoline were a different color, the message and overall impression of the piece might read more of lingerie instead of a body “mold”.
Does your interpretation align with the designer’s intention (according to the exhibition and your own research)?
According to the FIT museum website, the Fashion and Physique exhibit was about how the body is represented through media and history. This particular piece I’ve chosen to evaluate is from Chromat’s spring/summer collection of 2015. The FIT website explains that Chromat, “use models from across races and sizes, including transgender models and some who wear prosthetics. They also produce their lines in a variety of sizes, rejecting “straight” and “plus” divisions. They are setting an example for the industry with the message that all bodies are beautiful and deserve to be included in fashion.” What I’ve gathered from my own interpretation is that this piece is making a statement about the body and its ability for change. The model wearing the piece on the runway is a plus size woman which changes the meaning of the garment. If this piece was being worn by a “straight size” or skinny model, the meaning could be altered. This piece does look quite different on the model vs. on a mannequin. For instance, the model wearing it makes the crinoline appear more peplum shaped but when on the mannequin, it looks like it’s creating a body outside of the body.
How does your object participate in the social conversation about color and gender?
This piece obviously is playing with the shape of the female body and accentuating the hips and legs in order to make the shape of the model seem more voluptuous. Some would consider the crinoline shape to be considered the goal body; a tiny waist and big hips. This could be making a statement about the expectations of women to have this body type.
Why do you think the curators included it in the exhibition? Include information from the lecture, website, and course readings to support your answer.
I think this piece makes the most sense to include because of the way it is acting as a mold to form another body shape. This is, first of all, a bustier that is meant to act as shapewear, and then make the hips wider and legs thicker.
Featured in The Body: Fashion and Physique (2017). 2017.53.1
