1.
Christian Dior, New Look, February 12, 1947.
Costume: The “Bar” Suit
Date: February 12, 1947
Context: After World War II, Christian Dior released his first haute couture collection, known as the New Look. This revolutionary collection re-established Paris as the centre of the fashion world. Additionally, with the new look it revived the classical feminine style, moving away from the boxy wartime profile towards a softer, longer lines.
Designer: Christian Dior
Model: Renee Breton
Photographer: John French
Place: Paris, France
- I find this image interesting for what it represents in the fashion history, as well as how it represents the historical and cultural transition of a post-war period. The transition from a boxy, utilitarian style dictated by the war period, into the classical feminine style, characterized by the narrow waist. It is true that the narrow waist and the corset was rejected for many years by women and even doctors concerned about the health of the wearer. However, the new look represents the total rejection a boyish utilitarian look defined with restrictions and utilitarianism into a newsworthy and desirable look. Therefore, this look represents the new begging after war for a country not only boosting textile industries and manufacturing but reviving femininity with its silhouette.
- Moreover, this look also appeals to my personal style and design work, as I appreciate the aesthetic of minimal, elegant and feminine style. As he played with silhouettes to revive femininity, certain elements like the fabrics, construction and silhouette combination is what make Dior successful.
- Like Christian Dior said, “We were just coming out of a destitute, parsimonious period, obsessed with vouchers and textile points. My dream thus naturally took the form of a reaction against this poverty. […] We were coming out of a period of war, of uniforms, of female soldiers with boxer-like proportions. I drew these female flowers, soft shoulders, blossomed busts, thin waistlines like lianas and wide skirts like corollas.” This narrative, what the new look represents is what interest me to research more and learn more about it.
2.
Coco Chanel, La Garçonne,1928
Costume: La Garçonne
Date: 1928
Context: Chanel, as well as Patou, was a leading exponent of the garçonne style. The simplistic boyish look determined and characterized the style that dominate the postwar fashion, reaching its peak in 1926. An antithesis to the romantic and exaggerated feminine sexuality style that led fashion in 1910s.
Designer: Coco Chanel
Model: Coco Chanel
- I find this image interesting because of the personification of the La Garconne style in the designer Coco Chanel, which was actually one of the leading designers of this style during 1920-1930s. Chanel did not only represent La Garconne, but her personality and lifestyle was very revolutionary and a modern in that time. The use of trousers and jersey shirts is what characterized Chanel and her minimalistic modern style. Moreover, the garconne look, defined by simplicity, represented freedom and empowerment for women as they adopted boyish characteristics, such as the very short hairstyle, but in a symbolic way, as men were seemed as powerful and independent. For this reason, this look was an aspiration for women for a new life, instead of designing based on reality.
- Personally, I like the Chanel style specially her color palette and the fabric choice she used. I appreciate very much minimalism and how it can speak for itself rather than exaggerated and overdecorated garments. For this reason, it resonates with my style and design work.
3.
La Garconne cover page by Victor Margueritte
First published in 1922.
The fictional novel is about the life of a young woman who, upon learning that her fiancé is cheating on her, decides to live life freely and on her own terms. I find this cover interesting because of the way it portrays a women. With a boyish look that became famous during the 1920s, it represents a powerful, strong, confident women. The way its looking, the posture and the use of cigarette it is almost challenging society and its norm. For this reason, I believe that it will serve as a mediated image that can be analyze in how it represents La Garconne style and its context.
