Body as Witness

For this piece, I was inspired by how our clothing is a witness to our lives; over time, they become stained, ripped and worn out. It lives our daily lives with us  and through our actions and interactions, we affect the clothing. In the same fashion, our hearts are witnesses to our lives. We are born with a perfectly good heart that has not been broken or torn or stained. We go through life and we meet people. We let them into our lives starting on a surface level, public, relationship, and, as time progresses the relationship becomes more personal and private. They affect our lives and the people we let in change our hearts. They are not the same as they were before. People come into our lives and stain our hearts with their love and our memories and it leaves a rip when they leave. I wanted to show this through a simple garment as a metaphor for our hearts. I constructed a simple dress and then I took a series of photos in different locations. The locations progress from public to private areas, just as our relationships do. As time goes by, the dress becomes more worn out, stained and ripped in a natural sense because the process of letting someone in and then realizing you have changed is a slow process and one that you are not necessarily fully aware of. It isn’t until they are gone that you fully see the change they had on you. I displayed these photos in a family photo album, just as memories are stored in photo albums because that is mainly what you are left with in the end and a family photo album is a common symbol that most everyone can relate to, just as everyone faces this similar experience in their lives.

 

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Yves Saint Laurent and Halston: Fashioning the 70s

 

Saint Laurent Rive Gauche

Gold and black ensemble, polyester chiffon, 1976, France

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Here, the use of pattern is very interesting and pleasing to the eye for many reasons. The gold on black contrast is very appealing to the eye and the art nouveau style pattern draws in the eyes. The pattern is not too wild, but at the same time the viewer follows its eccentric curves and turns over the woman’s body. The draping of the dress is casual, while the pattern of the dress is more evocative of formal wear. The pattern flows over the dress just as the chiffon would flow as the woman walks. This pattern is composed beautifully on the dress so that the eye can follow it complexly and easily while at the same time flattering the woman’s body. The many shapes that are found in this pattern make the viewer linger on it even longer. It evokes a sense of royalty and with the colors it uses and the grandeur size of the shapes.

 

Yves Saint Laurent

Multicolor and turquoise “Chinese” evening ensemble, printed silk crepe, 1977, Paris.

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The “Chinese” pattern of this dress was very popular in its time. The black ground color emphasizes the bright, multicolored, oriental pattern that covers it. The accents of turquoise in the pattern also compliment the turquoise at the bottom of the dress. The design repeats itself, while at the same time it is not clearly repetitive. The same small curves are rotated and connected in different places. This makes the pattern very pleasing to the eye matched with the fact that many colors are utilized. The draping of the dress is also matched with this pattern. The loose sleeve but fitted top reflect the small space that it is left between the pattern and the free flowing curves of the pattern. This dress also is reflective of the art nouveau movement that goes hand in hand with the rise in orientalist inspired patterns that came about in the 20th century. The overlay of the textile over another piece of the textile adds even more depth to the pattern, which is not apparent right away, but upon further and closer gaze on it, it becomes apparent.

 

Halston

Navy full-length dress, printed knit cotton, circa 1976, New York.

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This Halston is free flowing and casual which matches the pattern of multicolored flowers flowing through the wind. This is emphasized even more by how the dress would flow as the woman walks. The contrast of red and white flowers really pop off the dress and the green stems draw the eye from one group of flowers to the next. The pattern of the flowers going up on the upper half of the dress, changes when the dress hits the waist and the flowers begin to point down as the fabric flows down. Both the pattern and the cut of the dress evoke the season of spring and it blurs the line between casual and formal, just like St. Laurent did in the first one. The wrap of the dress around the neck matches the way the pattern of the flowers flow around the dress.

Japanese Noh Robe: In Class Image Research

Source: ARTstor

Artist: unknown, Japanese

Title: Noh Robe (Kitsuke)

Work Type: Costume and Jewelry

Date: Second half of 18th – first half of 19th century

Made in Japan

Philadelphia Museum of Art

Style Period: Edo Period (1615-1868)

Material: silk chevron twill weave (atsuita)

Image description: plaid blue and yellow lines of varying thickness on an off white fabric. Very geometrical and not fitted to the body and it has many panels.

Questions do to with style, class and the culture in relation to the garment:

If this is a costume, then does is reflect a style of an earlier Japanese period as opposed to the 19th century?

Who wore this garment and for what occasion? Was this costume considered in style or in a dated style since it is a costume?

Are there any paintings or images from this period that we can use to figure out the type of person who would have worn this garment?

*Unknown, Noh Robe, silk chevron twill weave, Philadelphia Museum of Art, Second half of 18th Century – first half of 19th century

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Unknown, Noh Robe (Kitsuke). Late 18th Century – Early 19th Century, photograph. Philadelphia Museum of Art. Available from: ARTstor, http://artstor.org (accessed February 12, 2015).

 

Surface Design for Fabric Research Table

Footnote: Richard Proctor and Jennifer F. Lew, Surface Design for Fabric (Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1995), 11-16.

Bibliography: Proctor, Richard, and Jennifer F. Lew. 1995. Surface Design for Fabric. Seattle: University of Washington Press.

1.1 The idea that is expressed in the reading is one that states we as humans have an impulse to make a design on something that is not already designed.

1.2 “In every case the action or technique is the result of a design need and an expression of a design principle or element. Also at work is a seemingly universal human need related more to instinct than to intellect – that is, the need to embellish an otherwise plain surface.” – pg. 11

1.3 There is something about a blank slate or canvas that appeals to humans. It allows us to express ourselves onto that surface, which is something that all humans long to do in one way or another. It makes humans feel as though they have left their mark.

2.1 The author describes the best technique as to how an artist should go about planning their pattern and how to keep both the artistic spirit alive, while also properly planning it out.

2.2 “The best plan is to work known to unknown factors, possibly establishing major color areas or guidelines, then returning to the drawing board and determining the next series of known factors…balance is struck between impulse and intellect.” – pg. 11

2.3 This is good advice for artists because artists tend to create based of emotion, but artists must also be practical in their application. If an artist can be both passionate and practical about their work, they will be able to share their work more fully and properly with others.

3.1 The author discusses how the origins of designs begin and how much of the inspiration is directly captured in the finished product.

3.2 “Eventually, the question arises as to how a particular motif or fabric design idea was arrived at. It may have come directly from that source, be it a fern frond, a pre-Columbian textile, or an Egyptian frieze.” –pg. 12

3.3 Here the important question of plagiarism or cultural appropriation comes into play. How much of the source can remain in a designer’s pattern before is becomes stealing from the source. How do we know the line between originality and inspiration?

Part 3:

Blank spaces and new beginnings are found everywhere in human thought. I believe this natural phenomenon is so prevalent because we as humans long to express ourselves and leave our mark on the world. This can be found in fashion, in the way designers can take a simple textile and put their own pattern onto it, therefore making the garment an expression on themselves and it becomes something that can be shared with others and around the world, even if they personally cannot.

How a designer communicates their ideas and designs to rest of the world is important because it is an reflection on themselves, who they are, and what they have to say. The authors of “Surface Design for Fabric” have good advice in this arena. They discuss how an artist can start with the known and move to unknown and how this leaves room for the artist to balance their emotional, artistic drive with the more practical and resourceful side of executing their design. These ideas will help an artist more properly communicate to the rest of the world.

When it comes to inspiration, there are many different questions that arise. An artist can derive inspiration from just about anything, but it is crucial that the designer give credit where it is due. What can an artist claim as his or her own work since there is nothing new under the sun? How then can an artist make sure that they are not stealing the ideas and designs of others, but rather that they are creating a conversation with the source of their inspiration?

Helena Rubinstein: Beauty is Power

Helena Rubinstein was a Jewish woman born in Poland in 1872. She opened her first cosmetics business in Australia, then in Paris and London, and eventually one in New York. She was the first modern made woman and a famous entrepreneur, fashion icon, and patroness of the arts. By her death at the age of 92, her cosmetics company spanned four continents.

Rubinstein was a pioneer in her business because she changed the idea that makeup and beauty were only things that the wealthy could obtain. She appealed to the immigrant worker woman and to women of all types. She combined her love of art, fashion, and style into her salons and was very successful in getting her image out into the public. She also was very innovative in her cosmetics, being one of the first cosmetic lines to warn women of the dangers of too much sunlight on the skin.

Some of the beauty rituals shown in the video at the exhibition includes “The Rack,” where women would get their muscles and vertebrae stretched out on this rhythmic couch. The video also showed women smacking lotion on their arms and their faces as well as walking on their tip toes with books on their heads. A commercial was shown for Rubinstein’s lanolin formula for the face. The ad suggested women rub it on their faces, especially by their mouth and eyes.

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“Advertisement: Mme. Helena Rubinstein (Helena Rubinstein, Inc.).” Vogue 53, no. 9 (May 01, 1919): 130. http://search.proquest.com/docview/904295568?accountid=12261.

Sketch of object from the exhibit:

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Elsa Schiaparelli Bolero Evening Jacket – 1938

Rubinstein owned this embroidered bolero designed by Schiaparelli.

Rubinstein was one of Schiaparelli’s earliest supporters and owned many items by the designer who was inspired by surrealist art.

Rubinstein wore the bolero on her honeymoon with her second husband.

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Elsa Schiaparelli, Orange Jacket with Straight Shoulders and Patch Pockets. Photograph. Philadelphia Museum of Art. From Baudot, Francios. Elsa Schiaparelli. New York: Universe/Vendome, 1997. Page 26.

Family Tradition Mood Board

Christmas Traditions: Baking cakes and delivering them to family and friends on Christmas Eve, making home made cookies, eating Christmas Eve dinner at Grandma’s, hanging our stockings, and watching A Christmas Story.

A large part of our family’s holiday is centered around food. My mother explained that cooking and baking with the family has always been a huge part of our family, going back to our ancestors who emigrated from Germany in the 1800s to the U.S. and became owners of a farm, a farm that our extended family still has. That is why we would always go over to our grandmother’s house for a proper Christmas Eve dinner. My family has emphasized generosity and hospitality during the Christmas season. We would bake cakes and cookies with our mother and grandmother. My sisters and I would then deliver these cakes to friends and family as a way of saying “we are thinking about you this holiday season.” This recalls an old time American, Midwest tradition for me, of cooking for people you care about. We would also always hang our stockings together which were all crossed stitched by my mother when we were young. The images on these stockings are also old time American, recalling paintings of Norman Rockwell. My dad grew up in the 1950’s and 60’s and one of his favorite movies is A Christmas Story. We always watch that movie with him on Christmas Eve which also brings to mind the old, simple, all American life for me.

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Perceiving and Mapping Time: Waking Up

After doing my written observation and analysis of the process of waking up, I could not stop thinking about that first instant I am awoken by my alarm and jerked out of the dream or peaceful sleep that I was in. As you lay there, the dream and place you were once in begins to fade at a rapid speed and a few seconds later you can barely remember what happened in it, and you only have a haze of where your mind just was as your eyes readjust to the light and the room around you. This all happens in such a small amount of time, yet it is a lot for you to visually process. After reading Speed: Aberrations of Time and Movement by Oliver Sacks, I was struck by this small time span once again. Sacks states, “Dreams can take wing, move freely and swiftly, precisely because the activity of the cerebral cortex is not constrained by external perception or reality.” When we are dreaming, our minds can churn out stories and thoughts in a matter of milliseconds, whereas while we are awake, our perception of time slows down significantly. This was all my inspiration behind my project. I wanted to capture how through the eye, in that time span, your dreams become smaller and harder to see while your surroundings become more apparent as time becomes slower and larger.

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Discussion Topic

What are your thoughts on viewing the Met’s textile collection online?

I found it very exciting to view the collection online. It was rather enjoyable being able to limit the data results in various times periods, cultures, and medium; the surprise of what came up next was very exciting. The collection inspired me to design and to want to learn more about the cultures behind the textiles.

Did it spark in you a desire to see the work in person?

It most definitely inspired me to want to see the textiles in person. I wish I could have seen the texture up close and to see if the colors looked the same in person. I also longed to feel that special feeling you get when looking at a piece of art in person, and not just looking at a photo of it.

What do you think the benefits of museum’s collection’s being online?

I think it is very beneficial because these collections online can open up a world of exploration and discovery for people who cannot view the textiles in person. I, myself, have been inspired as a student and an artist by being able to view these collections online. Not only does it inspire and educate people around the world, but it also inspires people to come to the museum to see the textiles in person.

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