Initial Sketch:
I chose to manipulate a simple t-shirt in order to combine streetwear with couture-like detail work. My collection also incorporates a lot of asymmetry and juxtaposed elements. My goal is for it to look like this pleated, fitted bodice is inserted into a t-shirt. This piece explores the dichotomy and juxtaposition between religion and social media, streetwear and couture, and tradition and innovation. I want to use traditional pleating and ruffling techniques in a new and modern way.
Paper Patterns:
When planning my pleating, I had to make sure that the knife pleats that surrounded the bodice were curved to the body perfectly to avoid any weird bulging or strain.
Lining / Experimental Phase:
To make sure that the bodice is structured and well fitted, I draped it on the dressform. I decided to drape it without a waist seam in order to challenge myself because I typically pattern with a waist seam. Doing this also minimized the seam allowance and bulk around the waist to create a cleaner look.
Final Muslin:
The pleating process was tedious, and I wish I made the pleats smaller, so that it was more refined and interesting. The big 3/4 inch knife pleats do not look like the right proportion for the bodice. If I were to make this again, I would want to make smaller pleats to make it more proportional. The construction itself went reletively smoothly and it was actually very fun to make.
