The Pants Project

Pant Muslin Practice

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Research Paper Notes and Image Inspirations

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Google Doc Notes:

Music in Response to Vietnam War

Music Festivals – Promoting Peace and Anti-War Sentiments

“Counter-Culture Youth”

Summer of Love 1967 in San Francisco

Woodstock in 1969

“Three Days of Peace Love and Music” – half a million people attended.

Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, Joe Cocker, The Grateful Dead, Crosby, Stills & Nash and Neil Young.

The August 17 performance, which lasted just under five minutes, featured Hendrix manipulating his guitar’s sound by employing distortion and whammy-bar techniques. The end result was a remarkably realistic imitation of several war sounds, including machine gunfire and explosions. Just over halfway through the performance, Hendrix briefly plays the “Taps,” which is what the American Military plays during an honorary burial. By getting his anti-war message out through the unique manipulation of his guitar, Hendrix appealed to the thousands of concert-goers who came together for peace.” – http://www.studentpulse.com/articles/713/protest-and-rock-n-roll-during-the-vietnam-war

 

Edwin Starr’s song “War” 1969 – most distinct anti-war protest song ever.

John Lennon – “Give Peace a Chance”

Bob Dylan “Times They Are A – Changin”….

Gotta get down to it

Soldiers are cutting us down

Should have been done long ago.

What if you knew her

And found her dead on the ground

How can you run when you know?

  • Neil Young “Ohio”

Vietnam war was the first war to have anti-war music permeate culture instead of Pro-War music.

“The Vietnam War was accompanied every step of the way by an anti-war soundtrack that touched on every tone—melancholy and touching, enraged and sarcastic, fearful and resigned—and that captured the long demoralizing impact of this war. And like the anti-war movement itself, it began without a significant audience in the early sixties, but grew to a critical mass by the war’s termination.” – https://www.gilderlehrman.org/history-by-era/sixties/essays/protest-music-1960s

Bob Dylan – 1963 “With God on Our Side” – taking the idea of God every being on a country’s side during a war to be a ridiculous claim.

But now we got weapons

Of the chemical dust

If fire them we’re forced to

Then fire them we must

One push of the button

And a shot the world wide

And you never ask questions

When God’s on your side

Through many dark hour

I’ve been thinkin’ about this

That Jesus Christ

Was betrayed by a kiss

But I can’t think for you

You’ll have to decide

Whether Judas Iscariot

Had God on his side” – Bob Dylan

 

“Come and sing a simple song of freedom

Sing it like you’ve never sung before

Let it fill the air, tell the people everywhere

We, the people here don’t want a war

Now no doubt some folks enjoy doin’ battle

Like presidents, prime ministers and kings

So let us build them shelves

Where they can fight among themselves

And leave the people be who like to sing.” –

Bobby Darin – Simple Song Of Freedom

Life at Woodstock 1969 (1) Life at Woodstock 1969 (3) Life at Woodstock 1969 (4) Life at Woodstock 1969 (6) Life at Woodstock 1969 (7) Life at Woodstock 1969 (8) Life at Woodstock 1969 (10) Life at Woodstock 1969 (12) Life at Woodstock 1969 (13) Life at Woodstock 1969 (16) Life at Woodstock 1969 (19) Life at Woodstock 1969 (24) Life at Woodstock 1969 (26) Life at Woodstock 1969 (29) Life at Woodstock 1969 (35) Life at Woodstock 1969 (37) Life at Woodstock 1969 (41)

Pattern Development:

unnamedSlash and Spread

unnamed-4Slit, wide bottom leg, high waist

unnamed-3Wide inseam

unnamed-1Slash and spread with high waist

unnamed-2Pedal-Pusher

unnamed-7High-waisted, wide legged, Pedal Pusher

unnamed-8Loose Pant with side slit.

PANT SKETCHES Process

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Model Fitting:

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Welt Pocket Sample

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Side Seam Pocket:

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Slant Pocket:

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Yoke and TopStitch Pocket:

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Pattern Development:

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Pant Muslin/ Second Fitting

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Final Pant Process:

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Moodboard/HangTag:

mood board for LPHang Tag template

Illustration/Flat:

PantIllustrationPrint

Final Pant:

PantPhotoshoot (1 of 7) PantPhotoshoot (2 of 7) PantPhotoshoot (3 of 7) PantPhotoshoot (4 of 7) PantPhotoshoot (5 of 7) PantPhotoshoot (6 of 7) PantPhotoshoot (7 of 7)

Research Paper: Swinford_Olivia_1960ResearchPaper

Reflection: At the beginning of this process I was very overwhelmed with the all the different directions I could take in regards to the 1960’s and the change that occurred then. I was most intrigued with the music of the 60’s and the influence it had on the war and war protests. From there I looked at the hippie movement tied to the folks and rock music of the time. I also then decided to look at a timeline of sorts of the music of the whole decade and there I saw more movement from one genre to the next and the amount of change that was happening on the music scene from the start of the decade to the end of the decade. From there, I was influenced even more by the concept of movement and finding a way that I wanted to incorporate that into my design. My design fluctuated multiple different times and at first I was going to use lace and incorporate slits into my design. I knew I wanted to show the skin in some way and contrast part of the garment with something more fitted versus something that was freer and gave glimpses of skin more. As I went swatching, I found the fabrics I now used. I had never fitted a garment to another person before so this was a challenge for me when it came to making and changing the pattern. I also have not really developed that many patterns before, so I was intimidated by my design at first. As I was making the garment, I found the white fabric to be very tricky to work with and I would say my biggest challenge was in lining up the diamonds perfectly and then attaching such a lightweight stretch mesh fabric to such a thick brocade and getting it to fall right. I also decided not to incorporate the slit I was originally intending on having in the front on the bottom of the pant because I did not want to risk loosing volume and I liked the way you can only see leg through the fabric at certain angles and with the right light. I feel very accomplished with this project and if I could improve upon it, I probably would probably fit it to my model even more precisely and I would understand how my fabrics work together better when sewing them together.

Project 1: Knit Black Dress

Process Drapes:

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Process Sketches:

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Morphs:

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Final Sketch:

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Knit Top Process Photos

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Samples:

IMG_5723Facing on the left arm and binding on the right arm.

IMG_5724 V Neck Samples

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IMG_5725 IMG_5726Binding close up.

IMG_5915Hem on Coverstitch Sample

Week 1 Reading:CuttoThinkResponse

Week 2 Reading:KnitDress

Trail Garment Process Photos

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Final Sketch (Front, Back, Side Views)

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The dress shown as belted and not belted.

 

Photoshoot

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Illustration

Print

 

Reflection

Overall I am very pleased with my final garment and outcome for the project. Working with knits was a brand new experience for me and I enjoyed it just like I thought I would. I always love draping with knits but I had never actually made a garment from my drapes of knit fabric. It had always just been to gain inspiration for sketches. I also had never drafted and made a garment with a cowl neckline or inserted a drawstring in a garment before until now. I definitely struggled with the coverstitch machine when I was trying to do the hem and armholes and I need to get better at sewing on the overlock and coverstitch in a circle. I most definitely learned a lot in manipulating knit fabric and how important it is to practice drape with the same weight of knit as I am planning on using for my final garment.

I am very pleased with my design and its qualities. If I did the project again, I might add another drawstring on the other side seam so as to add even more versatility in the looks it can create. The project really pushed me to think about design in a new way and the functionality of a garment in tandem with how it looks and how they can compliment each other. I enjoyed learning how to insert the drawstring the most. That is something I think I will continue to incorporate in my garments because of the versatility it can add to a garment and its functionality. Overall, I really enjoy wearing knits and using them because of their comfort because I think garments should be comfortable for the most part, or people won’t love living in them. Now I am glad that I have some experience in how to create with them.

Client Branding Part 2: Mood Boards and Vintage Shop Visit

Understanding Adrian’s Aesthetics

Board 1:

AdrianBoard1

 

Board 2:

AdrianBoard2

Board Citations: AdrianBoardCitations

New York Vintage Visit

http://www.newyorkvintage.com

After looking at books of Adrian’s bias cut gowns and tailored suits, it was incredibly fun and interesting to see items from the 1930’s and 1940’s up close and personal that were constructed the same way. With the tailored suit outfits for women I noted how there was padding in the shoulders and how the seams were sewn on the tailored jacket to accentuate the bust and make the waist smaller. With the Bias cut dresses, I payed close attention to wear the fabric was cut and the seams were sewn, especially where the skirt of the dress connects with the bodice of the dress. I only wish I could have seen these garments on an actual model.

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Red Velvet Two Piece. 1940

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Black Silk Crepe Gown but on the bias with hand embroidered beading. 1930

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Printed Lamé and Mocha Velvet Biad-cut evening gown. 1930

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Black Jacquard Taffeta Evening Gown with Silk Trim, Bias cut. 1930.

Client Branding Project Part 1

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This is a photo of the costume and fashion designer Adrian. He is also known as Gilbert Adrian, although he was born as Adrian Adolph Greenberg. The photo comes form the Fashion and Model Directory. The page discusses how Adrian was vital in creating Hollywood as a center for glamour in the 1930’s, designing costumes for 250 films including The Wizard of Oz. He created iconic looks for actresses like Joan Crawford with her broad-shouldered suits and dresses.

(“Gilbert Adrian Greenberg – Fashion Designer | Designers | The FMD.” The FMD. Accessed April 23, 2015. http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/gilbert-adrian-greenberg/.)

PDF: AdrianPart1

SONY DSC joan-crawford-mildred-pierce 20_gilbert_adrian-theredlist

Adrian designed countless costumes for MGM in the 1930’s. He is known for designing gorgeous gowns and costumes and for making Hollywood the center for glamour. In a time when Hollywood and cinema became a form of escapism for people, Adrian’s designs gave women something to admire and a fantasy they could play into. He dressed many famous actresses including Katherine Hepburn, Jean Harlow, Greta Garbo, and Joan Crawford. One of the most iconic styles that he designed is the broad shouldered look for Joan Crawford (pictured above). This style and puffed sleeves he designed for Crawford for the movie Letty Lynton became a major style for women of the time and still inspire designers today. Another major project that Adrian is known for is designing the costumes for The Wizard of Oz, including Dorothy’s ruby slippers.

(“Gilbert Adrian : Fashion, History.” Gilbert Adrian : Fashion, History. Accessed April 24, 2015. http://theredlist.com/wiki-2-23-1249-1254-view-1930s-profile-gilbert-adrian-3.html.)

(“Joan Crawford – the Forgotten Queen of Style.” All Aboard For Skinkers Swamp. July 16, 2012. Accessed April 24, 2015. https://allaboardforskinkersswamp.wordpress.com/2012/07/16/joan-crawford-the-forgotten-queen-of-style/.)

PDF: AdriansWork

 

Adrian’s New Project:

—“The Philadelphia Story” (1940) is being remade current day. The Story will follow the basic plotline of a high society woman (Tracy) who is preparing for her second marriage to wealthy man after she ended her first marriage in divorce. Her ex-husband, a writer for a newspaper wants revenge and takes a fellow journalist with him as we gets involved in the wedding. Tracy, finds herself confused, conflicted and learns a lot about herself in the process. Adrian designed all of the costumes for this movie. For the remake, the garments will stay true to some of Adrian’s signature elements.

Bjork Response

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This piece was one of my favorites in the exhibit. It appealed to my visually the most out of all the pieces in the exhibit. The moment I saw this, I thought of a modern, woman samurai. The unconventional material used for the garment appears to be bells of different sizes and looking at the garment as a whole, it looks like a very protective piece – from the high collar like wall and the density and hardness that comes from the look of the metal bells. I love how her long, feminine hair is used as a mask. This also reminded me of samurai ponytails and buns. This adds to the strong and warrior like look but it is contrasted by the fact that its her own hair, something personal and vulnerable in a way. This idea was very appealing to me. This relates to my research project on Japan. Although I am not focusing on samurai in my report and studio project, I have done some reading on them and their influence in the shift to the Meiji period which is a big part of my report on Japan. This also matches my studio project, where I am making modern styled/inspired kimono garments. This dress is like a modern samurai look.

Body as Trace

Body as Trace
Humans leave traces of themselves everywhere and we have been doing this
from the beginning of time. Even the caveman’s simple tools made out of rocks can
be considered traces – extensions of themselves. In today’s technological age, I was
thinking about how everyone spends so much of the day online. We now not only
leave physical traces of ourselves, but digital traces of ourselves as well. It is so easy
to go back in your phone to find an old message or to go back into your browsing
history to find a website you were on earlier that day. Potentially, you could sit
down at an unknown laptop and you could learn a lot about a person by looking at
the traces they leave on their Internet history. Indeed, a person’s browsing history
can share too much – secrets. In contrast, people clear their browsing history to hide
their secrets from people that they do know. I wanted to show this through the
contrasting voices and visual screenshots. Paired with the dusted latent fingerprints,
I aimed to convey how these are secrets that people do not know about individuals
because they are deliberately hiding them. These secrets are invisible, but they leave
evidence physically, although not immediately visible. The immediately visible trace
of the browser history can also be deleted, and once again the secret is invisible.
Video Link: OliviaSwinford

In Class Make-a-thon Prototype

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Researching Japan in the 19th century for my final project/paper in Studio and Seminar, I have read about the kimono and its significance in geisha’s attire. I have also read about how the kimono was adopted by the West and how it was a garment that wealthy men would wear as a night robe. I have decided to make a few kimono inspired garments that I will dye with indigo and experiment with shibori techniques on. Indigo was commonly used as a dye in Japan for garments. After having read this, I noticed how blue is found in many prints from the 19th century depicting women in kimonos. Shibori is a set of Japanese techniques that were used to create patterns on kimonos and other garments when they were being dyed. For the in class make-a-thon, I made a prototype of one of the garments I plan on making to dye.

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