For the final facet of my semester-long research project, I intend to design my very own Grateful Dead-inspired long sleeve men’s shirt. This shirt will have similar design elements to other Dead-inspired garments currently on the market, but my intentions are different; I want this garment to accurately and effectively encapsulate the essence of the very subculture it is being designed for — Deadheads. Although I do intend to incorporate the Dead’s iconography into my design, these symbols will not be the only elements of the design. They will be supported by language that further reinforce the nature of what it truly means to be a Deadhead. My frustration with the fashion industry’s sudden investment in and adoption of Deadhead culture lays in the fact that there is an abject lack of authenticity. The designs currently on the market offer no sense of what it means to be a Deadhead; they fail to capture the essence of this subculture and the incontestably powerful music of the Grateful Dead. My frustration with Deadhead culture is that, for the most part, it lacks any sense of aesthetic value or integrity. Deadheads have the spirit, transcendent values, and sincerity, and the fashion industry has the aesthetic integrity — as someone who is involved in both of these worlds, I want to merge these elements in a way that is genuine, authentic, and ultimately tasteful. I feel that what separates me from other designers who have attempted to create Dead-inspired designs is my intent. Because I am actively involved in both of the aforementioned worlds, I have an understanding of, access to, and leverage over both of these systems. I essentially want to reclaim Deadhead culture and return this iconography to the people who have interacted with it in a genuine manner for decades.
After finalizing my design and having it screen printed onto a long-sleeve, I will call upon a true Deadhead to model it for me. I have already reached out to members of various New York-based Deadhead Facebook groups, and I intend to subsequently contact some of the contacts I made at Radio City just last month. I don’t want my garment being worn or modeled by someone who bears no understanding of the rich culture and history of the Grateful Dead; I want my garment worn by someone who is apart of that culture and has participated in it for decades. After all, I am designing this garment for Deadheads. I envision a photoshoot that takes place in front of the brick and mortar space of some of-the-moment brand or boutique (ideally one that has appropriated this culture), perhaps Off-White, VFILES, The Vintage Twin, What Goes Around Comes Around, or BAPE (or all of the above!) By placing my model in front of such spaces, I am making a statement: this iconography belongs to the people who actively participate in this culture. Designers may continue to adopt elements of Deadhead culture, but what’s important (and what I am aiming to do with my work) is to consider the origins of this iconography, and to ensure that these designs are accessible to the people who understand the implications on a profound level.
BELOW:
A preliminary design consideration. I do wish to incorporate the iconography, but that I also wish for my design to extend beyond just the symbols associated with the Dead. Through lyricism and language, I want my design to capture the true essence of the Grateful Dead and its respective subculture. It is important to note that the design pictured below is only my very first attempt. I want my finalized design to be informed by Deadheads; I intend to communicate with members of this community and get their feedback on what they’d like to see in a design, while also pulling from my own aesthetic values and instincts. The most crucial element of this project is the notion of participation from members of the Deadhead community. I want them to be as involved in this process as possible!
