These pieces were made when I was doing a collaboration with Unknown Studios, a streetwear clothing brand. They asked me to make a pattern for a skirt and tube top. First I tried to use the pattern fabric directly on a mannequin however I found that difficult and confusing. Since I already had a lot of stretchy fabric I decided to make the skirt and top based on my measurements. I measured where the red lines are on the mannequin.
Then I cut those numbers in half since they were the measurements of both sides of my body. I then measured out those same lines as I did on myself onto the fabric. I cut out the basic shape of the skirt and top. From there, I continuously modified the pieces by sewing segments then trying them on, then making changes accordingly. When I finished the skirt and top, I flipped them inside out and ironed them. I then traced their shapes onto ironed pattern fabric and wrote out directions.
This image is of the ironed pattern fabric on the left and the ironed inside out top and skirt on the right. I used a grayish black, stretchy, thick, polyester material to make the outfit.
This photo was shot after I traced the basic outline of the skirt.
I then added in details to the pattern and cut it out.
This photo was taken after I traced the top and wrote the details onto the pattern paper.
This is the pattern for the top before it was cut out.
These are the two cut out pieces. I only made one pattern for both the front and back of the top and bottom. I did this because it worked for the stretchy material I was using and it fit my body type. However I do realize I would have to have a separate pattern for the front and back of the top and skirt if I wanted it to fit other body types. I recommend the user layer one piece of fabric with the wrong side facing up on top of another piece of fabric with the right side facing up. Then put the pattern on top of the two pieces of fabric and cut out the shapes.
These patterns can also be arranged to make a dress. The user should add a couple inches of fabric in between the top and skirt to create a proportionate dress shape.
These were some of my notes with measurements and a zipper design.
These are some instructions when using the pattern.
The final outfit on.
The whole point of making the above outfit and pattern was because one of the owners of Unknown Studios, who I was collaborating with, wanted me to make a tight cropped tube top with a tight skirt. I made the pattern thinking he would give me a stretchy material. However he gave me a cotton that had no stretch to it. Their was no way I could make the pieces pull overs so I had to incorporate zippers. I wanted the zippers to be hidden however, because I didn’t have much experience with those, I redid the pieces numerous times trying to make the zippers perfect. After installing the zippers the best I could, I tried on the set. Although it fit me, it was a little too small to wear comfortably. I had a friend who was a bit smaller than me try it on and it fit her all wrong. Because the fabric had no stretch, it’s shape was unique to me. I eventually called up the guy I was working with and told him my dilemma. He said he would change the fabric but keep the design.
This was the first fabric I was given to make the set with. After completing the set, then trying it on, I realized the shape of the pattern I designed was for a stretchy material, and because this material wasn’t stretchy at all, it was very gapy. I thought the zipper installation was what was making it gapy so I redid the zipper many times. The skirt in this photo would definitely be gapy and misshapen on someone smaller than me however I don’t think I’m going to adjust and finish this piece. I’m going to start over when I receive the new material and move on. I will most likely use this fabric for something else, but it will not be for this design.
I wanted to make a top and skirt with this knit material. I challenged myself to use a different form of closure then my commonly used zipper. I was inspired by my high school uniform skirt that was a wrap skirt that used buttons for closure. I deiced to do a wrap skirt with snaps and buttons.
I then created a crop top that I simply pulled over my head but I wanted it to correspond with the skirt paneling design so I reworked the top to have working buttons.