Key Word: Pleated, folds
Inspirations:
Layer one: should be some fabric that is hard and heavier than the second layer. (wool, denim, etc)
Layer two: should be some fabric that is light and carry a fluid feeling.( silk, jersey,etc)
Sketch
Step 1: two half-scale dress on muslin
basic skirt pattern—A line dress
One: add pleated godet only on one side
based on this second godet dress, i made some changes
i decided to have to layers, and use two different fabric, and instead of have triangle godet (as what i did in the half-scale muslin dress), i want to give the folds a trapezoid shape for each folds.
my process:
1.made out an A-line dress pattern, cut the pattern into four even pieces, and they would be the first layer of the skirt.
2.pleaced the four pieces in pattern paper, and left same space in between and made out the pattern and it would be the second layer. And i pin the together.
when it opens
then it folds
and i use same way to do the back piece.
Since i want these two layer of the skirt to have two totally different texture, and the second layer should be some fabric that is soft, light and smoothy.
After searching, i chose denim and poly organza, i brought 2 yards of denim and 4 yards of organza.
i had many problems with this fabric because it is very difficult to work with, the threads, the tension of the machine, the width of each stitch, and the speed of sewing, everything would damage the fabric and the result, i had many times that the thread was keep twisting the fabric which actually troubles me a lot.
i did this process once, but maybe i was doing to fast or maybe the tension was too tight, so these two layers especially with the organza, they couldn’t stay flat and just twisted together. So, as the result, i had to brought those fabric twice, and re-do it slowly.
zigzag stitches to sew two layers together.
my front and back pieces are both “cut on fold”, and i left the seam on two side, and i placed the invisible zipper on the left side
since i actually have two layers’ seam that have been left out, and i was going to do a bonding for finishing. however, i didn’t have that many fabric left and i couldn’t find any bonding that have similar color, so i decided just do a simple clean finish on the side seam, and used the over-locked machine on the bottom part (organza), and i pin the up, did some hand stitches for finishing.
then the waistband, because denim is hard enough, so i didn’t put inter-facing on it.
hand sewn some snaps.
since the fabric of the second layer is organza, which is kind slippery, so i did some hand-sewn small stitches on the inside of each folds in order to make each fold to be more staid.
