Integrative Studio 2 | Vanessa Nefve

Category: Integrative Studio 2

May 12, 2019 / 0 Comments

Dressed to Rule

“Whatever we might do to conciliate opinion… is nothing beside the effect that the lapel of a uniform will produce… you win the French people with ribbons, with remarks, and with smiles.” -Barnave to Marie Antoinette

Project overview

The project was open-ended and we were allowed to explore any idea we wanted to with any medium as long as it related to our research in the seminar.

Seminar piece

In seminar, I researched public shaming, especially that correlating to women. I researched how it has been used to brand and exile powerful women. I zero’ ed in on how public shaming and how the perspective others have about us relates to our self-worth.

Concept and Inspiration

For my studio piece, I chose to focus on a more positive sense of how we carry ourselves. Clothing is very expressive of who we are and the persona we want to give off. Certain garments can give us courage and empowerment when we wear them. Growing up I have always been very insecure and only until recently have I been able to gain confidence in myself. I found that most of my life I was using my clothes to hide behind them and blend in, afraid to be different or stand out from the norm instead of just being myself. This dress represents my outfit of empowerment. While it is delicate and soft it is bold and demands to be worn with confidence due to its sheerness. The chainmail headpiece displayed as an accessory in the critique represents the armor and protection we wear to face the world. Its materials are strong and harsh but in the way, it’s crafted and the ribbon details it allows the piece to be beautiful. I gained an aesthetic to create art that was powerful, delicate, and beautiful because of the deep connection I had to fairytales and the powerful female characters in them. They inspired me because of the way they carried themselves with grace yet were so strong.

Research

I did a lot of research on how to sew a dress as this was not something I had ever done before. I also did a lot of projects on how to create a dress pattern as I created two of my own patterns in order to get the dress the shape that I wanted. Lastly, I did lots of research on how past rulers and leaders used the dress in order to distinguish themselves and signal their power.

When the emperor of Japan was beginning to impose western dress on his subjects his doctor urged him to let the ladies of the court retain the traditional Kimono; they were healthier than the corseted garments which tortured the western women. The emperor replied, “Doctor about matters of health you may know a great deal but about politics, you know nothing.”

Monarchs know that dress is a political instrument. Rules of dress have a political, economic, and social effect that signify identity, kinship, and rank. The way we dress and fashion answer many questions; Who we are: who we want to be; who we are forced to be; how we express it; and what it means. The right dress or uniform is believed to encourage loyalty, satisfy vanity, and impress the outside world because of status reassurance.

Challenges

I learned that the yellow tulle was very difficult to even see with just one layer so I had to put about 4 layers on the bodice even though I was going for a sheer look. Then for the bottom, I put 8 layers of tulle. Tulle was also very difficult to work with because it would constantly rip as it is incredibly delicate so I had to re-cut and sew the fabric many times. Lastly, with the tulle, it is sheer so it is impossible to hide any mistakes so I really had to make every stitch perfect which meant many hours of hand sewing.

Concept Mood Board

Dress Mood Board

Sketches:

Progress

the muslin dress

The first layer

the first layer of skirt and boning

Another layer of skirt, sash, and the cups

Additional four layers of skirt added

bodice and top attached and buttons and ribbon sewn on

Final Piece

Critique

During the critique, the color choice and sheerness of the dress were discussed sating that yellow represented light and joy. Someone mentioned that the craftsmanship of the dress was impressive due to a difficult fabric. It was mentioned that the contrast of the dress and the headpiece showed a concept of strength and redefining feminity. It was also critiqued that the dress should have had more of a connection with the chainmail in its material. Personally I have to stand behind my work and disagree while I did consider adding chain mail to the dress I decided against it as I enjoy the contrast the two pieces give off as they both represent different aspects, one being the delicacy of the dress and how that represents a future with of confidence with no guards while the headpiece is a symbol of my past and how my clothes were used more like protection so I did want some more separation between the two pieces. I also believe by the ribbon and the pearls on the back of the dress matching and the same textured ribbon on the headpiece connects the two into one garment. And lastly the silver chainmail and white ribbon, in my opinion, match the color and texture of the dress quite nicely.

April 25, 2019 / 0 Comments

Studio Final- Artist statement

Monarchs know that dress is a political instrument. Rules of dress have a political, economic, and social effect that signify identity, kinship, and rank. Vanessa Nefve’s piece “Dressed to rule” explores how fashion correlates to power. The way we dress shows how we want others to see us. Dress and fashion answer many questions; Who we are: who we want to be; who we are forced to be; how we express it; and what it means. The right dress or uniform is believed to encourage loyalty, satisfy vanity, and impress the outside world because of status reassurance. Nefve’s childhood led her to a deep connection to fairytales and the powerful female characters in them. They inspired her by the way they carried themselves with grace yet wield power in a way that is powerful, delicate, and beautiful. As clothing can be very ceremonial and with the right garment you can be empowered to do anything because the right garment can put you in a powerful headspace. In this piece, she designed a gown that fulfills her childhood dreams, a gown that empowers her to be the women she once looked up to in her fairytales. She creates a delicate gown that is constructed to demand attention and can’t be overlooked.

April 12, 2019 / 0 Comments

Bridge project 4

This is the current progress that I have made. I have made a mock version of the dress out of canvas.

After this, I modified the patterns so that they were more to what I have envisioned in my mind. I then moved on to experiment with sewing a more difficult type of fabric. I then cut out new pattern pieces and cut them out on tulle. I am now working on the final bodice of the piece with tulle. It is a bit difficult to see in the picture because the yellow fabric blends in against the dress form. I have also pinned, folded, and pressed the tulle to create the pleats I want around the bust of the dress.

I have gotten all the tulle, satin and boning that I will need. My next step will be to finish sewing the new pattern pieces of tulle to complete the front portion of the bodice and find a way to place the boning on the garment so it doesn’t rip the fabric and aesthetically looks nice on the dress. I have also received the pattern I plan to use for the bottom portion of the dress, For this, I will need to modify the pattern pieces to fit the style of dress I want. Another obstacle that I need to find a solution for is how to create the back of the torso so that it is sturdy enough to contract to the body because my original design will not be possible as the fabric is too delicate and will rip.

this is also difficult to see but this is how I plan to layer a portion of the fabric. (Again I apologize that it is difficult to see because the mesh fabrics blend into the color of the dress form) But it two layers of a light yellow tulle and a mesh fabric that has golden sparkles on it.

Here are more photos of the fabrics

March 28, 2019 / 0 Comments

Studio- Self evaluation

– Is my point of inquiry clear? What am I actually trying to do?

I believe my point of inquiry is clear. I am trying to create an outfit of empowerment as it relates to the history of powerful women which allows me to make something that is delicate and powerful.

– Is my idea strong?

I believe I have a good concept and with further research, it will be stronger and more elaborate.

– Is my inquiry in-depth enough to build and sustain a whole project around?

Yes because there is much to look into throughout history for examples such as wardrobe of witches, queens and female leaders in order to look at the similarities and meanings behind their clothing.

– Am I challenging myself? Or, am I playing it safe?

I am definitely challenging myself with this project. I am using all new materials and techniques on a project that is very time consuming and requires a lot of expertise.

– Am I able to accomplish what I intend within the rest of the semester?
I believe if I stick close to my timeline I should be able to accomplish this project although I understand that with every project there are unexpected issues that will arise and I really believe I will encounter a few along the way.

– Is the studio work I am planning on making distinctly tied to my research? How is my research for Seminar fueling my studio inquiry?

Yes, the two are related although my studio is a bit more personal. My seminar project allows for further research into the history of women and their clothing.

– What is the connection between my proposal and Visual Culture?
My proposal goes hand in hand with visual culture for example in fashion, politics, and all of female history.

– Why is my project important/relevant?
This is important because it is something I have been wanting to do this for a long time. This will teach me how to use new materials and technique as well as planning for a large project. It is relevant because this topic of the public shaming of women has been repeated throughout history and not acknowledged often enough.

– What materials am I using? Have I used them before? Is it possible to learn new techniques effectively in time to complete the project?

I am using all new materials for me: tulle, satin, buttons, gauntlets, ribbon. I believe that I will be learning with every step of this project but I believe I am giving myself time and have done lots of research so I will be prepared and able to complete it in time.

– Am I excited about my project?

Yes, I am very excited and inspired by this project but I am also very nervous that I won’t be able to accomplish it in time.

March 18, 2019 / 0 Comments

Bridge 3 Studio Final Proposal

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March 2, 2019 / 0 Comments

5 Beekman Street hotel

Project overview: Create a piece that displays historical, personal, public, and fictional characteristics of the 5 Beekman street.

A little background of the building:

5 Beekman Street is breathtakingly unique from an architectural standpoint because of its intricate glass ceiling. 5 Beekman Street has had a long history, with many different tenants and stories to accompany them. At its opening in the 1880s, it housed a theatrical opening that premiered Hamlet for Americans. The NRA also became one of the initial tenants of the building. Afterward part of the building went down in flames after a fire started in the typewriting office. In 1911 a nineteen-year-old waiter jumped out of the ninth floor after being fired. The building became filled with small businesses from the 1940s to until 200o when the building was abandoned. Such glamorous and obscure site attracted many photographers to the building including a 2010 magazine cover shoot for harper’s bazaar. Then two years later Maison Margiela hosted a Great Gatsby themed party because of the striking resemblance of the buildings interior to the film.

Personal/public connection:

When I ventured into the building for the first time I immediately felt as if I had stepped into an alternate reality. When I spoke to guests and staff it seemed that I was not the only one that felt that way. Many people related the hotel to movies or time periods saying,” it felt like I had gone back in time to 1920s luxury” or some said “I feel like I’m in a Wes Anderson movie” or even “The hotel sometimes reminds me of the one in the shinning”. Staff had even told me that the hotel gets a lot of foot traffic from people who want to feel like they were at the great Gatsby parties.

Concept:

Because of the building’s rich incredibly rich history, I felt inclined to tell its story. The building’s glass ceiling was so extraordinary it left me dumbfounded. I had such a strong feeling of this alternate 1920s great gatsby world while in the hotel that it was difficult for me to separate film and reality. So to tell the story of the hotel’s past I decided to depict scenes from each of the tenants and events that happened at the hotel.

I wanted to pay homage to the ceiling that took my breath away and to do so I decided what if I depicted the hotel’s past by drawing with smoke and fire onto glass almost as if we were observers after the fire that happened in the building and if what was left of the building were these scenes of the hotels past burned into the glass ceiling.

Process:

I started this project by choosing images that represented the most intriguing and paramount stories of the hotel. Then I used a sharpie to sketch these images onto the glass. After that, I used tape as a sort of “stencil” to create the scenes I had just drawn. I cut thin lines of tape in order to create a layer that covered parts of the glass. Then I used a candle to create smoke that covered the glass. The longer I left the flame on a certain area the darker the smoke got and by doing this is was able to vary tones with the smoke. I also experimented and found that the way I moved the glass over the flame I was able to create different patterns with the smoke and by doing so some of the scenes were able to look almost dreamlike. Then I took off the tape and cleaned parts of the glass and if some parts were not clear or the way I wanted I went back and re-did the process. Then I took a clean sheet of glass and superglued the sheet to the side of the glass that I had burned so that when displayed, people would be able to touch both sides of the glass without wiping off or destroying the smoke. I then took a clear superglue and superglued the sides of the glass as it is very sharp and I don’t want the piece to cut viewers. I also joined the pieces together by connecting them with gold door hinges that move so when all closed together the piece folds to mimic a book but unfolds to create a timeline spreading each sheet of glass out so that it can be seen.

Critique: My Critique was generally very quiet and I was unsure how people were responding to the piece. I noticed that people were picking on the general ideas of the piece and the majority of questions were around what material I used to create the piece.

First tests and failures:

first attempt-

the beginning of taping

after I burned the glass

after some burning and removal of the tape

after more taping, burning and attempts of shading

both sides after I completed burning, you can see that I did a poor job of taping because the lines look jagged and I also got lots of candle way onto the glass which I would have to clean up and start over but with this trial run I learned that the idea I had to use smoke to paint onto glass was possible with a candle as I has tried many other forms that didn’t leave any marks. I also started learning how to try and control the smoke and the different values of the smoke.

Second attempt-

I decided that something with more structure would perhaps be easier as it could all be one tone and the tape would be able to create a nice picture.

after lots more taping

After burning and the removal of some of the tape. I decided that the lines looked jagged and I did not like the way the image turned out so I chose not to include it in the final piece.

Here is another attempt I didn’t include in the final piece-

Here are some process images of the pieces that I chose to include in the final piece-

The final pieces

The stories of 5 Beekman street-

The 1911 suicide-

The NRA tenants-

The Great Gatsby-

All together-

Final Photos

February 11, 2019 / 0 Comments

Studio Bridge Project 1-10 days of collecting

By looking at what the objects I use in my everyday life I have come to realize the bigger picture that these items represent. Items as simple as deodorant or even pockets portray the repression of women that has been occurring for centuries.

My first item is a picture of my drawing class. In a class of fifteen people, only one is male. This is not uncommon for art school. Women make up 60-70 percent of those studying art at a university level. Yet women only make up about 30 percent of artists shown in museums and art galleries. Some reasons given for this by gallery owners are; women are seen as risky investments because women may leave their careers to start a family, women not being as aggressive when it comes to promoting their work, and even a lack of passion for their careers. Art critic Brian Sewell in an interview for The independent spoke on this topic saying, “Only men are capable of aesthetic greatness. Women make up 50 percent or more of classes at art school. Yet they fade away in their late 20’s or 30’s. Maybe it’s something to do with bearing children.”

Ever since I’ve been a little girl I realized that women’s pockets were utterly useless they were either too small to put anything in or sewn shut. Christian Dior once said, “men have pockets to put things in, women for decoration.” Pockets are hidden spaces that allow for the mobility of both hands. On average women’s pockets are 46 percent shorter and 10 percent narrower than men’s. Women are forced to either restrict their mobility by caring a purse, carrying their items in their hands, or asking a boyfriend/male friend to carry their wallets or phones on a night out. In a study of 80 different styles of women’s jeans and 80 of men’s by Jan Diehm & Amber Thomas, they found that only 10 percent of women’s jeans fit a women’s hand while a 100 percent of men’s jeans can fit a man’s hand.

I had always wondered about using men’s deodorants and razors, I found that women’s razors gave me razor burn and female deodorants really didn’t do a great job at masking the sent. I made the switch about four years ago and found that I got a much closer shave with men’s razors with no burns or cuts while with the men’s deodorant was stronger and always masked the sent. The biggest thing that I noticed when I switched was the cost difference. I began to research the “Pink tax” and found that women’s items are marketed in an approach called “pink it and shrink it” where manufactures create the same item, make it smaller and more feminine. In a study of 400 of these items 42 percent of the time women paid more than men for the same item, 40 percent they paid the same, and 18 percent men paid more.

Another item I have is a tweet that shows a picture of Beyonce and Ed Sheeran performing alongside one another, Beyonce was dressed in a huge ballgown while Ed was in a T-shirt. The caption of the tweet said This photo is very representative of what we expect from men and women at the top of their game isn’t it? While a T-shirt and jeans may be Ed’s style that would never be acceptable to his female counterparts. Beauty standards in the entertainment industry are nothing new but it remains one of the most powerful messages that is given to young girls. Because the entertainment industry influences our society so heavily here we are shown that while Beyonce is one of the most successful women in the world she had to work harder to get to where she is.

February 8, 2019 / 0 Comments

Bridge project 1

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Vanessa essay fem-1ou7oix

February 1, 2019 / 0 Comments

Project Deconstruction Exercise

Project overview: Create a model of a memorial that you create.

Concept overview: In Loving Memory of the Patriarchy is a memorial site for the heroes that have inspired and supported women.

Contextual Research: I was researching the Me Too Movement and Dr. Ford and I came across the open letter which led me to search for other open letters and that moved me to think of creating a place that gives thanks and where these letters can be publicly read.

Material research: I started by watching lots of youtube videos on casting items in resin, sawing wood, and pressing flowers. Next, I made much smaller versions of the final product by using soap trays. Then I started a long period of trial and error until I had two pieces that were usable.

letter- New York times and Me Too leaders

Location: This memorial would be placed at Jefferson Market Garden. The garden is surrounded by flowers, a pond, and greenhouse. I believe that due to the seriousness and traumatic memories this memorial can bring up that it was better to place it in an area that feels safe and peaceful as opposed to somewhere like Central Park where the memorial would get more exposure. The site was also used to house a women’s prison that was shut down due to the terrible conditions there and I’d like to transform that area of women’s suffrage to one that can inspire women. Also because the site is a community garden it will bring in the public and because of this, the monument would bring awareness to the gravity of sexual assault.

Inspiration- At the time that we were assigned the project Brett Kavanaugh had been appointed to the supreme court. I wanted to show how important Christine’s sacrifice was as well as have something that could continue her fight.

Online Portfolio

Category: Integrative Studio 2