Knit projects: T-shirt.

 

 

 

The first step was to draft the pattern. This I did by following the instructions on the sheets provided by my teacher. I followed the guidelines step by step slowly building my personalized pattern. My measurements lead me to be a size medium as seen by the chart regarding my personal measurements even though my waist was a small my bust and hip was medium so I chose to use these as a guideline for further action. As this was needed as some of the measurements had to be checked using a guide from the provided pages.

 

Pattern:

After having created and completely the pattern successful, I started my design process.

 

I was really inspired by indian patchwork pillows as I felt they had more interesting and compelling surface quality. However I did also look at patchwork rugs as well to further my research- yet this lead me back to patchwork work on designer pillows. I was fascinated by the intricate design which was not overpowering though such as pearls and beading sometimes can  be.  These were some inspiration and research photos:

I was particularly in awe of the manipulation in these two pillows and their surfaces and composition.

 

After having done research and Further developing my process towatds my final

piece,  my tshirt, I decided I wanted to create a shirt which plays with and deals with an  idea of ready made fashion yet has a quirky and stylish, playful touch to it. However I also wanted to manipulate the fabric and create an entirely mew fabric inspired by the pillow patchwork.

So I came up with this design:

I used three old tshirts :

black yellow and white.

 

 

I then took these apart completely and reasebled the new shirt. At first my idea was to have the back be black and the front another colour. However as I thought more in detail of how to create an ineresting and visually appealing deaign I came up with a trio colour sleeve as well as patchwork design for the tshirt. Hence I then created the tshirt again from scratch using mainly the yellow parts for the main bodice yet cutting out recht angular shapes from the pattern to create the sleeve and bodice tshirt shilhouette.

Fisrt I manipulated the pattwrn. So that I could start making the bodice.

Then I assembled the bodice (relevant parts) and started working on the other parts simultaneously.

These are the manipulated rectangular pieces I added to the deconstructed bodice (added them in where I took away the rectangular pieces) .

How I did the manipulation:

Fisrt step was to cut a rectangular piece from one of the deconstructed tshirts – then I atarted to stitch along the long sise multiple times until i was left with a ripple effect.

I continued to do so many many times until the entirety of the materiel / new made fabric from the old tahirt  was “rippled” (pleated)

Slowly but surely I started to do this with every piece.  of all the colors of the different t shirts until I created the manipulated pieces to assembled with the personalized measured bodice of the tshirt.

After they were all rippled, I started to stitch along the folds vertically firts up then down until pattern was created multiple times.

until it looked like this :

I continued to do so until I created all the pieces needed. Next I also created parts for the sleeves.

I used the sleeve pattern I created using the guide, (with my personal measurements , then sewed together the needed fabric parts until

sleeves looked like this:

I chose to alternate colours for a more interesting final outcome and  impact of design.

I then Attached then assembled the remaining parts of the t shirt bodice and serges where it was needed inside. I also created a round neckline and clean finished it using some of the remaining exess yellow fabric and overlocked/surged the inside for a clean finish too as well as the rest. I then attached the patchwork detail partly set in and partly set in feom the outside so that the /surging was visible to create the wanted deaigner quirky look. I also used dark thread for most of the surging as I wanted stitching to be visible and not visually “drown” in yellow. As I thought a contrast was more visually complex and successful overall for the final deaign .

 

 

However I did surge the collar in yellow as I did not want the dark thread to shine through around that area. This was to emphasize the contrast of the design concept successfully.  Next I then put in the sleeves into the shirt.

To do so I hand hemmed them and eased them in and then stitched the sleeves into the armhole and clean finished.

Finished piece:

 

 

research in dress shirt

 

 

Guys and gurls shirt:

 

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/heres-why-mens-and-womens-clothes-button-opposite-sides-1-180957361/

Shirt types:

making a shirt

 

history

https://www.google.com/amp/s/theconversation.com/amp/the-story-of-the-mens-white-shirt-26312

PROJECT ONE- Antonia Groh

Sleeve research:

CELINE :

I looked at celines sleeves as I was drawn to a sense of volume within the sleeve. The examples I chose are evident above. I particularly was interested in the last image and the white blouse with a gathered detailing as I felt these were interesting takes on a classic style.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

I looked at Mcqueens sleeves as he is known for his incredible pattern cutting as well as originality and detailing. I was particularly drawn to his more voluminous designs as they reminded me of renaissance pirate sleeves. Also I thought his use of different materials yet  similar cuts was interesting to observe.

DIOR:

When researching sleeves I was also very in awe of Diors sleeve designs. I again looked more into the use of voluminousity within the sleeve design. I also greatly enjoyed how quite a preponderance of the dior sleevs were rather renaissance similar. Hence I chose to look more into this idea which led me to find these images for inspiration and research.

RENNAISSANCE inspired sleeves research:

Inspired by the sleeves I researched using the designers above I looked more into the shapes mens wear as well had in the age of the rennaissance. This also evidenced some sleeved with folded/pleated detailing which I was very drawn to and interested in

 

I also further looked into sleeves of the 1860’s especially looking at Sissi empress elisabeth of Austria. The paintings by Franz Xavier Winterhalter evidence rather voluminous sleeves yet they do not feel to overpowering. I enjoyed this design very much and hence chose to include it in my research as it was relevant to the sense of volume  I researched from other deaigners and sleeves as well.

MY OWN GARMENTS: (garments I brought in for research)

 

I chose this Sleeve as it is made from an interesting material – it is very puffy and the cuff is made from stretch so that it hugs the wrist neatly and tightly. This way the rest of the sleeve seems even more voluminous which I was drawn to.

I chose this sleeve as it is off the shoulder which reminded me of the renaissance off the shoulder sleeves as well as sissis sleeve in Winterhalters painting. Also the material is magnificent and so delicate which I felt was interesting to observe in greater detail. Furthermore the way it is attached to the bodice was interesting to me.

This sleeve I chose to observe as it is made from silk yet seems to be a similar pattern to the first voluminous one I mentioned-hence i felt it was interesting to observe how the material changes the “falling ” and movement of the sleeve.

This sleeve I chose to observe as well due to its delicate material and the sensual enigma it provides due to this. Also the lightness of the sleeve due to the chouce of material and  puffyness of the tiny sleeve was interesting to observe, as it contrast to the heaviness of the first sleeve. But still conveys a sense of volume and the capturing of the  sense of renaissance sleeves.

CREATING STUFFED ARM :

Full Scale:

The First step when creating the stuffed arm was to cut out the pattern in canvas(rather then muselin) as it is more sterdy and hence better for this project. I then continued the process by stitching along the front of the arm (vertically) using red thread, as well as stitching across the arm (horizontally)  twice. I also stitched along the lower part of the arm using dark blue thread. I did so using longer stitches so that the thread would be more visible.

I then sewed the needed elbow dart, a circle dart, so that I can continue my process.

In the next step I also used red thread and stitched a line in the center of the  piece attaching the arm to a mannequin (on both pieces). Then I assembled the top part of the stuffed arm, by placing both “good sides” onto one another and assembled these, ultimately turning the triangle shape inside out to create the correct piece.

Now I closed the arm by stitching along the side of the arm and then turning it inside out so that the stitching is insite. I then attached the previously prepared triangular shoulder part. (sewing it on top of the arm, about where the shoulder would start) Next I prepared two ovals (one small, one larger) to close the top and bottom of the arm.

 

First i handstewed the lower (smaller) oval to the bottom of the arm where the wrist would be, then I filled the arm with stuffing (wadding).

Last I closed the top oval (close to the shoulder part) by hand stitching it.

 

Half Scale:

For the halfscale stuffen arm I repeat the exact same practice and process as for the Full scale stuffed arm.

SLEEVE PRACTICE:

Raglan sleeve:

 

pattern:

For This sleeve I first drafted a pattern using the normal bodice and sleeve,then placing the front and back bodice at the top of the sleeve and measuring the distance between to create the mew measuring of the distances. Then evening put any curves that have been distorten to ensure smooth stitching lines.

So that I would get this pattern:

Finished sleeve:

Second sleeve exploring:

basic set in sleeve with fullness:

For this pattern I used the classic bodice pattern and sleeve pattern with a dart at the elbow.

I cut all patterns out of muselin and then started to sew in the darts. After I had done this I closed the sleeve and eased it in at the top. I then assembled the bodice and attached the sleeve to the armhole and finished the piece.

process:

finished sample:

Third sleeve : Kimono Sleeve:

For the Kimono sleeve i drafted the pattern using the classic bodice pattern. Then taking out the dart from the shoulder and adding it to the kimono sleeve (side) . I did this by  turning the pattern using the notches as guidence. I then used the patterns to build the draft and ultimately the pattern for the front and back kimono sleeve.

 

 

Pattern (Finished:)

Finished sleeve :(Kimono)

To assemble the sleeve I cut out the pattern from muselin. Then sewed the darts. Next placed both “good sides” onto one another and stitched along the sides to create the sleeve. I then turned it inside out so that the right side was outside again.

 

Process of Project:

(making my own three sleeves/ sleeve exploration experience)

The first step was to come up with ideas of different designs. So I designed a variety of sleeves but then chose to go with these three as I felt they were the most interesting and relevant towards my design

I then started to create the patterns:

sleeve 1:

Sleeve 2:

Sleeve 3:

I then started creating the sleeves.

Sleeve 1:

the first step was to cut out the bodice and create half a bodice for all three sample sleeves and then a full bodice for the main jacket.  So I used my fabric scissors to do so and cut out all the individual front and back bodice pieces and sewed them together. However before doing so I sewed the darts etc so that I could create the bodice properly.

Then after having sewed the first few bodices, I continued with the preparation for the sleeves.

first I created the raglan sleeve. However this needed me to create an extra fabric first as I was experimenting with pleates and thereforw pleated an entire section, making my own fabric, which I then curt the pattern out of.

I did this by cutting a lond rectangular piece if fabric which I made aure was wider then the pattern. Then I started to slowly build the pleates by folding the fabric every half and inch and sewing a line. This way slowly but surely the three dimensional fabric was created.

 

I then placed the pattern onto the fabric and proceeded to create the sleeve.

However as I only wanted the pleating to be on the sleeve, I made aure to cut only part of the pattern using the pleated fabric and the bodice part with smooth single coat muselin.

 

I then finished sewing the sample together. First finishing the sleeve and then setting it into the bodice. One thing I had to be very careful of is to make sure all the pleates are perfectly alined and matching before I could sew the piece. But I did make them aline which i was pleased with.

NEXT SLEEVE. (sleeve 2)

The next sleeve I wanted to create featured one big fold on the side of it. Then gathering it at the bottom of the sleeve so that the sleeve gains volume and the pelate becomes more opened.

The first step again was to crate the bodice- so I cut out the front and back bodice and then sewed the acordimg darts etc.

I then placed the pattern of the sleeve onto the material and fixed it with pins and cut it out of the muselin. However since the design features a rather deep pleate on the side,I had to make sure that I created clips where necessary so that I knew where to fold the pleates. I then Ironed the pleates so that i Could proceed.

To have the folds ironed is important so that when placing the sleeve into the bodice the placement is acurate. Next I then hand hemmed the upper pleated part of the sleeve so that it would not move when I eased in the sleeve and sewed it together with the bodice.

 

I then gathered the end of the sleeve and clean finished it after having done so.

 

 

NEXT SLEEVE: (sleeve 3)

For The third sleeve exploration deaign I created a sleeve with many pleates. This was a little chalenging as it needed me to take quite a bit of measurements. However I am glad I was chalenged as this gave me a chance to overcome this problem and will be good to know for future reference as I had never done a deaign such as this before in a sleeve format and actually executed it with sewing.

The First step again was to cut out the bodice for the front and the back. Then sewing the darts.

 

I then, having learned from the previous sleeve exploration, to first place the pattern onto the muselin and clip/mark all the folds (especially the middle and two/each outher sides) so that I would know where to fold the fabric. Before continued I also ironed the edge of the sleeve and clean finished it. (the edge where the hand comes out)

 

I then did was folding the fabric by following the marks and ironing the pleates carefully. The next step again, as in the sleeve 2, to hand hem the top part of the sleeve so that the pleates would stay put and not move when easing in the sleeve. I had to be particularly careful here as I did not want anything to pull in a strange direction, and wanted the pleates/folds to look neat. After having done so I then eased in the sleeve and attached it to the bodice.

 

I then proceeded by adding on a detail embeliahment on the top of the sleeve. A row of pleates. I created these by cutting out a long rectangular piece of muselin and ironed and clean finished the sides. I then ironed the pleates and hans hemmed them in place. Then I sewed over the pleates in the center of the pleated piece. Lastly I hand sewed it onto the crown/ top of the sleeve.

FINAL PIECE

design:

for the final jacket and skirt I started my process by deciding which sleeve i want to build upon. I chose sleeve number 3 as I loved the way it opened up due to the shape and pleates.

I felt as if the embellished top of the sleeve took away from the pleates however since I decided to create the sleeve without the top detail for the final

jacket.

I created the bodice, first cutting out the pattern out of the museline, (including nitches etc.) then sewing  in the darts. I also clean finiahed the neck part of the bodice using a bias band i cut myself. I did so by drawing a 45degree line across the museline and another one 2 inches away from it. Then ironing the edges on bith sides for a clean finish. The next step was to sew the bias band onto the bodice, clean finishing the edges around the neck, bottom of the bodice and front opening. I also hand sewed closures (only the eyes from hook and eye) onto the front of the jacket bodice so that it would lace up. As I wanted to create an effect similar to the lacing of a corset.

 

The next step was cutting out the pattern for the sleeve.

I repeated the same process as shown in the documentation of sleeve three, marking all the “folding points” the middle and the outside edges alongside my other notches/clips. Then I ironed and cleanfiniahed the edge of the sleeve. Moreover the next step was to iron the pleates again makimg sure they are neat and all the same.

I then handhemmed the top of the pleates so they would not move and closed the sleeve. Then I eased in the sleeve and put it into the bodice.

The Skirt :

For the skirt the first step was to cut out the pattern out of muselin. Then sewing the darts and ironing them. I then set in a zipper in the back. I first opened the zipper and used pinns to pin it in place then slowly and carefully stitched along side the zipper at 2 eights of an inch. I also again created a bias band with with I clean finished the top and bottom edges if the skirt.

 

Samples: (embellishments experiments)

 

For this sample I stitched across the rectangular piece of fabric continuously creating little pleats. Then I pinned them

in place and stitched up and down to create this manifestation of the pleates.

for the sample on the left I pinned my pleates randomly (once giving more space on the right, then left, then again right etc) until the fabric created a “s” wavy shape due to this manipulation of folds/pleates. I also reates a sample of just straigt pleates (next to it)

for this sample I played with shape a little bit and simply stitched a variety of thin rectangles and half circles onto another layer of fabric which i had placed under neath. to create this effect and manipulation of the material.

Here I created another version of my first sample but leaving more space between.