What is fashion

My definition of ‘What is Fashion’ would be as follows: ‘Fashion is the determining of someone’s identity through dress, as well as the expression of self, regarding gender, one’s beliefs, as well as expression of love to specific textures and/or silhouettes and/or ideals.’ Regarding the development of my perception of fashion throughout the course, my perception most definitely has been amended and expanded. Although I would not say it has fundamentally been completely changed from beliefs deeply rooted, I do feel as if I now have a much better and more prosperous understanding of the cultural values fashion holds within society and its influences. This regards gender-based phenomenons as well as political matters, regarding human interaction through dress as well as dress practices.  When starting this course I was slightly unfamiliar with the idea of gender, as well as gender roles, within fashion, as I had previously read about it and seen examples on the catwalks of the world. Yet I rarely ever had the opportunity to discuss the matter and break it down upon its course beliefs and historical context among other like-minded specimens, in order to generate common ground for discussion and mental stimulation and growth of interest and knowledge of the subject matter.  A quote relevant to this from Kaiser’s text would be ‘sex-gender distinction easily becomes a binary opposition in its own right and oversimplifies or obfuscated some complexities’. This quote in-particularly stuck with me so very much throughout the course as it was at this point that I truly understood the idea of binary opposition, particularly within fashion, as well as found myself brainstorm, as a designer, how to overcome some of the challenges it illustrates. This I found truly inspiring and personally would take away as some of the most precious new knowledge I have gathered when taking this course.

 

When visiting the FIT museum’s Pink exhibition, there was a preponderance of items which caught my interest. One of them being a pair of boys and girls children’s garments, which immediately made me recall Susan Kaiser’s statement within her book “Fashion and Cultural Studies” in which she speaks upon the subject matter of gender and the changing association of the colors blue and pink towards male and female gendered offspring. However, apart from this aspect, these garments were not particularly visually exciting, hence I continued to observe other items. This made me look at Charles James’ 1955 pink  “Tree“ dress ensemble, made from silk taffeta, silk satin, and velvet. The garment is one of Charles James’ more famous creations. It was designed for Mrs. Ronald (Marietta Peabody) Tree, who was a slightly larger woman, according to James, which necessitated him to reduce the “rather substantial bust and create a hollow ribcage.” (The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. Accessed November 17, 2018. https://www.metmuseum.org) The dress itself has a rather typical shape for the 50’s elevating a feminine, youthful yet sophisticated silhouette. My initial interpretation towards the dress too was that it seemed to portray an immense sense of femininity visually, however in a rather obnoxious of manners due to its rather opulent use of material. It immediately struck me as an example for over-exaggeration of the female form due to its mermaid flair pattern cut and petal shaped pannel around the shoulder area. Furthermore, the dress’ draping detail, executed upon the lower half of the dress, creates a v-shape along the front of the skirt, which can be interpreted as an homage to female genitalia, ergo a strong connection to a sense of femininity was clearly evident. In addition, the fact that the upper panel of the gown is formed in the shape of a flower petal further plays with the idea of femininity. This is due to the fact that women throughout history have been described as subjects of desire, admired in particularly and most notably for their beauty and youth. A maiden which appeared to be innocent and youthful was of significant appeal and hence greatly admired and idolized for her outstanding visuals. However, beauty is a fleeting phenomenon, hence it is often compared to a flower, as flowers bloom and their beauty is hence dated. Charles James‘ dress seems to deal with this subject matter, capturing this idea within the petal-shaped detail, as the collar appears to represent a flower in its full bloom. Furthermore, the design’s color choice can be seen as another metaphor for the mentioned idea of the fleeting beauty of a flower, respectively a woman’s fleeting beauty, as the inside is still rose-colored whilst the outside is slowly decaying. This idea is achieved as the dress’ petal detail features black velvet fabric on its outside, yet a light pastel pink lining on its inside. Moreover, this piece is a magnificent addition to the PINK exhibition, as it superbly visualizes the shift between gown designs of the era, shifting from a featuring of rather great amounts of embellishment to a focus on the silhouette, as well as being a representation for Charles James famously always being one step ahead, as he made use of a color combination which later in the 80‘s would become increasingly popular. This was due to a preponderance of then-popular designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Victor Edelstein and Adolfo finding themselves drawn to the colors as well as countless magazines, such as Vogue, further inspiring a preponderance of designers and audiences to make use of this fantastic color amalgamation.

Bibliography:

 

Kaiser, Susan B. “Fashion and Cultural Studies.” The B&N Sci-Fi and Fantasy Blog. Accessed November 18, 2018.

The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. Accessed November 17, 2018. https://www.metmuseum.org

PINK exhibition, FIT Museum, New York, Accessed 11th November 2018.

“Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Color.” Fashion Unraveled | Fashion Institute of Technology. Accessed November 11, 2018. http://www.fitnyc.edu/museum.

Subject: Sebastian M. Ruiz

Age: 22

Gender: Male

Occupation: Student

Size: 189cm

Nationality: Mexican

Relationship to the subject: Good friend/Used to be my roommate

 

Context:

Sebastian is from Mexico City, he and his family members are descendants from the Famous Mexican painter of the same name. He grew up in Mexico city with his sister Martha, who is one year older than him, as well as his Parents. When he was 12 years old his father passed away, hence any items related to him are particularly precious to Sebastian. Furthermore, he is a huge fan of football, especially the Eagles team and hence owns several collectible items relevant to this football team. Furthermore, as he is from a very fortunate family, he owned rather expensive clothes, particularly shoes, as well as other items (jackets etc). When interviewing him, particularly when observing individual pieces within his closet after the initial six questions of the interview, Sebastian and I also had a brief discussion about fur coats and fur jackets, as well as the preponderance of stigma regarding this topic. We particularly discussed how certain activist movements randomly throw pigs blood and or paint onto pedestrians on the street who happen to wear fur coats and how this is rather inappropriate. Moreover, we also discussed if it is ethical or not to wear fur, particularly if it is a vintage coat and has already been created years ago, as well as how ‘ethical’ it is in the first place to throw paint at a person.

Furthermore: Notes:

In our interview we talked about a variety of pieces from his closet.However the two pieces which undoubtly had the greatest amount of impact upon the interview were the two evidenced within the images below, as these are both pieces which were connected to  my subjects dad’s passing and hence carry an enormous amount of sentimental value to him. 

 

Highlights from your interview:

Example one: (Strong reaction when asked to associate his sense of masculinity to color: )

S: Yeah yeah ok I get it, em…I guess a little like sometimes people are weird when I’m dressed really crazy, like with the gold jacket or the pants, but they don’t really say something super strong ‘cause it’s not like I’m wearing all pink or something so nah.

me: When you say that, like all pink, do feel like that would change it like how masculine…

Example two: (Subject became slightly embarrassed when asking about his dressing regime, voice changed and became louder to overcompensate embarrassment, uncomfort)

me: When you get dressed how does that work?

Sebastian: What do you mean? I just get dressed hah.

me: No no, I mean, sorry, I know this sounds weird, but like what do you put on first, like pants or jacket or…?

Sebastian: I mean I guess first underwear, obviously..and then t-shirt, pants and then everything else like jackets or something and yeah.

me: And shoes?

Sebastian: Yeah shoes last.

Example Three: (Subject’s style is influenced by his friends as they shop together when subject is back home, yet even when  he is in a different country, he associates the pieces of clothing with the relevant people and hence tends to wear the same pre planned outfits he does back home with his friends )

 

me: Ok, cool last question so, …Do you follow a specific style, fashion movement or something like that? Like you know, like how you form your own style like some people are hipsters etc. do you have something like that ?

Sebastian: Ah, not really, but I guess I do follow like what my friends in Mexico wear a bit.

me: Oh really? How so?

Sebastian: Yeah like just a bit ‘cause we go shopping together so I mean we kind of all get the same stuff so I guess, but other than that I pretty much just have my own style I guess.

 

Specific Things I learned from this practice:

I was fascinated by how much my subjects pays attention to color and plays with patterned material, as well as color composition, even though he suffers from color blindness. Furthermore, I also was very touched how much my subject subconsciously seems to try and reembody aspects of his late father, as he evidenced to own a great number of clothing items which seem to either have either have relevance to his father’s late style or a direct connection. I gathered this knowledge based on these specific examples from my Dress Practice Interview, such as my subjects leopard fur jacket, as well as the black and gold jacket, he purchased in Milan with his family. (my subject mentioned it reminded him of something his father would buy). I could very much emphasize with this practice as my father also passed away when I was 12 and hence tend to glorify certain pieces of clothing within my closet that once belonged to him, or evidence his essence. Moreover I noticed that my subject still seems rather connected to his family, regarding color choices, as they seem to have in a way taught him how to use color well, yet he does not comply to the same ‘dress manners’ here as he does when he travels back home, which was very interesting to observe, especially as I do connect to the fact, that I too have to follow some dress rules when home, yet also very much different as I never really took inspiration from my parents when choosing my dress.

 

Together with group in class:

 

1)

In common :

they all have expensive stuff

they all categorize by item

they all like comfort

not in common:

one of them also categorized by color

one really colorful against two medium to natural colors

guy/2 girls

two changes from day to night a lot/other not so much

in common with me:

lots of variety

expensive good quality clothes

categorize by item

2)

gender : my subjects reacted strong to masculinity question (colour pink for guys)

 

 

 

 

THE FULL INTERVIEW ASSIGNMENT:

 

Antonia Groh interviewing Sebastian.

Subject: Juan Sebastian Martinez Ruiz

Age: 22

Gender: Male

Occupation: Student

Size: 189cm

Nationality: Mexican

Relationship to the subject: Good friend/Used to be my roommate

Sebastian is from Mexico City, he and his family members are descendants from the Famous Mexican painter of the same name. He grew up in Mexico city with his sister Martha, who is one year older than him, as well as his Parents. When he was 12 years old his father passed away, hence any items related to him are particularly precious to Sebastian. Furthermore, he is a huge fan of football, especially the Eagles team and hence owns several collectible items relevant to this football team. Furthermore, as he is from a very fortunate family, he owned rather expensive clothes, particularly shoes, as well as other items (jackets etc). When interviewing him, particularly when observing individual pieces within his closet after the initial six questions of the interview, Sebastian and I also had a brief discussion about fur coats and fur jackets, as well as the preponderance of stigma regarding this topic. We particularly discussed how certain activist movements randomly throw pigs blood and or paint onto pedestrians on the street who happen to wear fur coats and how this is rather inappropriate. Moreover, we also discussed if it is ethical or not to wear fur, particularly if it is a vintage coat and has already been created years ago, as well as how ‘ethical’ it is in the first place to throw paint at a person.

Interview Questions:

What kinds of clothes do you usually wear and why?

What is your typical routine when getting ready in the morning?

How have you organized the items in your wardrobe? 

Is there a particular reason why you organized it this way?

Do you feel like your choice of dress influences your sense of masculinity? If yes how so?

Would you say you shy away from ‘feminine’ men’s clothes?

Do you follow a specific style, fashion movement?

Interview:

me: Hey! So…I am going to ask you a few questions ok? Like.. em…

Sebastian: Yeah, like what?

me: Em, like, you know just a few questions about your closet and style and stuff. So let me start. I have a few questions here that I’m supposed to ask you and then I have some more that I wrote too… so, first of.. you are from Mexico right?

Sebastian: Yeah.

me: So, do you think that your nationality influences the way you dress at all? Like, whatever, like the colors you choose, or like the texture of your close, like the pants, you know, the red ones you sometimes wear?

Sebastian: Em… I don’t know, like maybe, I mean I don’t really think about that so much, to be honest, I mean I guess a little, cause like my family is big on colors so I guess that probably influences me somewhat.

me: Even now when you don’t live with them?

Sebastian: Na, your right, well like I guess a little still, maybe, cause I mean I still see them like every other weekend. So yeah.

me: Ok cool, well then next question, so this is one of the prewritten ones.

Sebastian: ok.

me: Em, yeah, so ‘What kinds of clothes do you usually wear and why?’ So, kind of like, yeah whats your everyday style, and what you wear.

Sebastian: Em, I guess this, haha.

me: Haha yeah, but can you describe it a little more in detail please, ‘cause I need it for the interview, like describe what you are wearing and why you chose it, please.

Sebastian: Oh yeah, sure, em, well I am wearing a light blue pair of pants with white stripes on the side and a striped shirt, in yellow, white, red and blue and a jacket, in red with like little flower things, like patterned on it and em, like my Yeezys and eh yeah that’s…oh and my Versace chain and yeah that’s it, I think.

me: Hah yes, you got it all and what made you chose this particular outfit today, like why did you chose these items?

Sebastian: I mean its hella dope hah, and em, this is like my favorite pair of pants so I wear them pretty often so yeah.

me: And the rest of the outfit, like the jacket t-shirt etc. what made you wear those today?

Sebastian: Oh yeah sorry hah, em I mean I really like this shirt I feel like its so bright so it goes with pretty much anything.

me: Would you say its a statements piece?

Sebastian: Oh yeah I guess, yeah, yeah I guess it is.

me: But yeah sorry continue.

Sebastian: Yeah so em, like the t-shirt goes with all my stuff well so I wear it a lot and I f***ing love this jacket man, its like so dope, I mean just look at it hah, its red and like awesome and the zipper is gold and matches my chain, it’s hella lit!

me: Hah, I know you like this jacket but is there a specific reason you wore it particularly today?

Sebastian: Not really, except maybe the fact that I wanted to wear my chain today cause I had a presentation so I wanted to look nice and the zipper kinda goes with it so I always wear this jacket when I wear my Versace chain. So I guess that’s the reason why.

me: Ok, awesome, yeah that makes sense ‘cause it like matches and stuff, em, yeah but haha we are kind of drifting from the original question.

Sebastian: Hah, yeah.

me: so, What kinds of clothes do you usually wear and why and also tell me ‘What is your typical routine when getting ready in the morning? ‘ So just one after the other.

Sebastian: Erm, what was the first one?

me: What kinds of clothes do you usually wear and why?

Sebastian: So usually I go for I guess smart casual, but with like a wacky more rapper style twist I guess, ‘cause I don’t like blazers that much at least not during the day, so yeah like a t-shirt and like cool pants.

me: Like jeans or what?

Sebastian: Yeah, jeans or yeah actually I only wear jeans hah but like fancy ones with prints and stuff.

me: Ok cool and what else ?

Sebastian: Other than that, I mean, yeah t-shirt, pants and like a jacket and some cool sneakers, but not my Versace ones or like ones that were super expensive, ’cause I like just wear them at night when I go out or to nice events or something.

me: Ok, and is there a particular reason for your style?

Sebastian: What do you mean?

me: Like why you wear a lot of red or why it’s more ‘rapper’ as you said or you know something like that.

Sebastian: Oh em yeah well, like I really love red and it’s like my favorite color and also I’m color blind so its a color I actually kind of see so I really like it and I mean I just like the sort of look that is kind of ‘rapper’ inspired I guess, ‘cause it’s fancy and stylish but its not uncomfortable, like you can still do stuff in it and sh*t.

me: Ok cool, yeah then let’s move on to the next one ‘What is your typical routine when getting ready in the morning?’

Sebastian: Em like with brushing teeth and all or just dressing?

me: Let’s just do all.

Sebastian: Ok, well em, I go brush my teeth, then I like wash my face and all that stuff, shower, get dressed, if i have time maybe play a game and then yeah that’s it.

me: When you get dressed how does that work?

Sebastian: What do you mean? I just get dressed hah.

me: No no, I mean, sorry, I know this sounds weird, but like what do you put on first, like pants or jacket or…?

Sebastian: I mean I guess first underwear, obviously..and then t-shirt, pants and then everything else like jackets or something and yeah.

me: And shoes?

Sebastian: Yeah shoes last.

me: Ok cool, erm… next question, or is there anything else you want to add like any other routine steps?

Sebastian: No, I think that’s pretty much it.

me: Ok awesome!

Sebastian: I mean the only thing is I pack my bag for school but yeah that’s kind of obvious.

me: Oh yeah, is there any special reason for your bag or which one you choose?

Sebastian: No its just the only one I have here, the others are in Mexico, and the only other one I got here is hella ugly and I think it’s broke too so .. yeah so I take that one.

me: Ah ok, fair enough. Ok so also I got to know please ‘How have you organized the items in your wardrobe?’ if you have any special organizing at all that is.

Sebastian: Erm, I don’t really have that much of an organization going, I mean like maybe I do a little like I got all my winter stuff on the left like coats and things and then jackets and then like blazers and stuff, but yeah that’s it.

me: Ok, so any color sorting at all ?

Sebastian: Nah man, that’s too much effort, but I do put like the fancy stuff in the back so it doesn’t get messed up.

me: Ok and then in the other one?

Sebastian: Yeah also kind of not that much of a like order or something ‘cause it’s pretty much just underwear and my t-shirts and stuff.

me: So you don’t like order your shirts or pants in any way like I don’t know maybe color or like I don’t know the size or anything?

Sebastian: Nah not really, I mean I just put shirts like, I mean I put the summer ones on top of one another and then the winter one like with long sleeves, but that’s it and for pants I just kind of put them wherever.

me: Ok cool, then .. oh Is there a particular reason why you organized it this way?

Sebastian: Nah not really its just the easiest way

me: Ok cool, then .. next question ‘Do you feel like your choice of dress influences your sense of masculinity?’

Sebastian: What do you mean? Like clothes?

me: Yes.

Sebastian: Em, not really, I mean I just kind of wear whatever I like or what I feel like, yeah.

me: Ok fair, I just mean like you know like the pants you have for example the ones with the rhinestones on the side.

Sebastian: Yeah.

me: So I guess like you could say they are more ‘feminine’ then like for example your normal jeans or the ones you are wearing now, so when you wear them do you feel like people react to you differently, or like weirder or something,  like feel like you look more feminine or give you comments regarding that or something, do you get what I’m saying?

Sebastian: Yeah yeah ok I get it, em…I guess a little like sometimes people are weird when I’m dressed really crazy, like with the gold jacket or the pants, but they don’t really say something super strong ‘cause it’s not like I’m wearing all pink or something so nah.

me: When you say that, like all pink, do feel like that would change it like how masculine…

Sebastian: Yeah man of course!  I mean of course then anybody would think I’m like not straight  when I’m wearing all pink hah, but I don’t so I mean yeah.

me: But not with your clothes?

Sebastian: No.

me: Ok em, yeah so the next question would be ‘Would you say you shy away from ‘feminine’ men’s clothes?’ but you kind of just answered that.

Sebastian: Yeah.

me: But can you just answer it a little more like are there any more ‘feminine’ clothes or pieces you would wear? Like obviously not hot pink or something but maybe like em, like I don’t know a jacket that has super strong embellishments or something or like a long shirt you know like Justin Bieber sometimes does?

Sebastian: Na man f***k that, but I mean yeah like if the jacket is dope I’d be down to wear that.

me: Ok are there any guidelines or something ?

Sebastian: What do you mean?

me: I mean like whatever color or something.

Sebastian: No not really just not pink pretty much anything else is fine I guess.

me: Ok, cool last question so, …Do you follow a specific style, fashion movement or something like that? Like you know, like how you form your own style like some people are hipsters etc. do you have something like that ?

Sebastian: Ah, not really, but I guess I do follow like what my friends in Mexico wear a bit.

me: Oh really? How so?

Sebastian: Yeah like just a bit ‘cause we go shopping together so I mean we kind of all get the same stuff so I guess, but other than that I pretty much just have my own style I guess.

me: When you say your own style is there anything specific that makes it your own? Would you say?

Sebastian: I mean I chose it hah, so I guess that and like a lot of red and stuff but yeah.

me: Like a lot of texture or print or something?

Sebastian: Yeah! I like prints, I guess and kind of texture but not over the top just like cool things like this. (shows me jacket Item 1)

me: Oh so like embroidery stuff ?

Sebastian: Yeah, so I guess that’s it, like I like things like that so I make that my style I guess.

me: Ok, awesome! Well, I think I got everything for the questions, thank you so much! Now please just show me your closet and tell me some stuff about your favorite items and like if they have any special meaning to you etc.

Sebastian: Yeah no worries.

me: Cool.

___________________________________________________________________________

We then went into Sebastian’s closet and he showed me a variety of this items, the one we spoke about in detail are these

Item 1: This is the red jacket referenced in the interview when talking about style and the particular surface quality Sebastian tends to be drawn to. Furthermore, this particular jacket is very dear to him, as he purchased it when he was on holiday with his family in France. He has owned it for approximately 3 years now and he said he wears it approximately one or two times a week. 

Item 2: This is another one of Sebastian’s favorite jackets, He purchased this item in Milan, also on holiday with his family. Sebastian particularly loves the gold of the jacket as he said he is very much drawn to ‘shiny things’ and reflective surfaces within clothes as they easily upgrade any outfit. He states he only wears this jacket when going put to a party or evening event.

Item 3: This is a family heirloom piece, which is extremely special to him as this jacket used to be his grandmothers, and his dads apparently used to wear it too. Hence it is incredibly special to Sebastian. He said he does not wear it often as it is ‘a little much’ sometimes according to him. Also as he cares for it so deeply he does not want it to get dirty etc, hence he only wears it for special occasions. Moreover, we also spoke more about this piece as it is real fur, and obviously, that is somewhat controversial, particularly as it is leopard skin. He further stated ‘yes this is also one of the reasons I don’t wear it much because I don’t want people to freak and then throw paint on me or some sh*t’.

 

 

Item 4: The jacket here is one of the many items Sebastian own regarding his love for the football team ‘The Eagles’. He purchased this item at the Super Bowl when the Eagles won, hence it is an important piece to him. He does not wear it very often, however, as according to him it does not go well with many outfits, due to its color. However, he still wears it out whenever he attends a game.

 

These two pictures show part of Sebastian’s closet, in which he keeps everything on hangers, such as jackets, coats, blazers, some shirts etc. as well as part of his shoe collection. Above the hangers is where he keeps his more expensive shoes such as Gucci and Versace shoes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This image (to the right) portrays the part of my subject’s closet which holds his underwear, trousers and t-shirts.

 

 

Documents: 

pdf of inspiration essay:

Antonia Groh design inspiration-1i62jgw

research of jacket :

 

 

Mood:

Inspiration pictures: Chinese traditional drawing

 

Mood : 2: my collage

 

The aphorism I chose to observe from Christopher Breward’s foreword to Fashion Studies was, “Fashion is intensely personal, in the same way, that poetry is intensely personal. It is a medium through which personal stories can be told, memories re-lived and futures foretold.”

I chose to observe this particular aphorism, as it captures the essence of creating one’s individuality through a medium of choice. This is a key aspect within fashion, as well as fashion styling, as the individual wearing their clothes of choice sometimes consciously or even unconsciously creates an identity for themselves through the media chosen and put onto their bodies, ultimately forming the subjects fashion esthetic. This outside will then be observed by other individuals, generating a sense of identity and or stereotype which the person wearing the clothes most times does not have direct control over. Hence the choice of what one chooses to wear is incredibly personal at times, as depending on the degree of  ‘provocation potential’ of the items worn, impacts the level of vulnerability the specimen chooses to lay open. However, the degree of vulnerability is arguably in the eye of the beholder, as well as the individual wearing the media. Hence the aphorism is to most specimens, including myself agreeable.

Secondly, I took a closer look at this aphorism: “Fashion does not define. It is instead a term that demands definition”

Arguably this sentence is quite an ironic statement, as a rather large and demanding part of the fashion industry is dedicated to defining trends and analyzing what is ‘so hot right now’. Moreover, it also states what is not, ultimately creating a sense of fashion dictation within the free choice of what to wear, stimulating ‘fashion rebels’ and ‘trendsetters’ to go against this stream, hence generating provocation and forth taking the journey onto birthing a new trend that will again be dictated to others who do not feel the need to strive for the new, but instead follow what is currently apparent and ‘in style’. Hence this aphorism is both agreeable, as well as disagreeable, as fashion itself does not define because fashion is not a living breathing human with a brain which can make its own choices, however it is arguable whether fashion without the human being can even exist as it is the human who creates choices and hence fashion/outfits etc. So fashion does not define, the human creating the fashion does. However, hence fashion also does not ‘demand’ definition, it is the human wearing the media, and generating a corresponding market, that does so.

Jacket Project:

 

 

Inspiration jacket :

 

The first step was to place the pattern onto the fabric so that I could begin my process of creating my creative jacket.

 

I then started to assemble the main bodice. had changed the pattern as I manipulated the hemline at the front and created a elongated panel which would overlay. This way the jacket would look similar to a bouble breasted jacket because I created the pattern of a double breated front but minimized the overlay so it looks more feminine and extended the jacket front for a fresh look. I also emphazised the silhouette of the jacket by manipulating the pattern and adding additional triangles to the side seam area which made the jacket stand away more from the body slightly and  emphasizing the waist.

 

 

 

I then also cut out the collar pieces, first assembling the top and then the bottom collar pieces, and assembled the collar and added it to the jacket stitching it in using a 2.0 stitch. The next step was to add the front collar panels and then connect both collar pieces to finish this part.

 

I then cut the sleves from fabric and assembled both sleeves. I decided to add a different fabric combining wool and silk jaquard so that the cotton was placed under the arm for additional  comfortable use.

Once I assembled the individual sleeves, I gathered them the top and set in the sleeve into the bodice.

Finally I added button holes and attached two gold buttons. I then started to embellish the jacket. I created a fabric manipulation at the back of the jacket and then attached applice detail I had previously stitched onto organza fabric so that i would be able to attach it to the jacket with more ease and controle .

final: 

 

 

Research Bibliography:

 

 

“Suit Style 1: The Difference between Bespoke, Made-to-measure and Ready-to-wear.” Permanent Style. https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/04/whats-the-difference-between-bespoke-made-to-measure-and-ready-to-wear.html.

 

“Bespoke vs. Made-To-Measure vs. Off-The-Rack | What’s The Difference?” Real Men Real Style. September 20, 2017. Accessed, 2018. https://www.realmenrealstyle.com/bespoke-made-to-measure/.

 

“What’s the Difference? Ready-to-Wear, Made-to-Measure and Bespoke.” Timeless Man – Bespoke Tailoring, Fine Menswear, Craftsmanship, Timeless Style. Accessed 2018. https://timelessman.com.au/advice/what-is-the-difference-ready-to-wear-made-to-measure-and-bespoke/.

 

 

“Ad Campaign Flips Gender Roles, Features Women In Suits & Men Completely Naked.” OUT. October 16, 2017. Accessed 2018. https://www.out.com/fashion/2017/10/16/ad-campaign-flips-gender-roles-features-women-suits-men-completely-naked.

 

 

Banks, Emma. “A Photographic Timeline of Women in Suits.”

Jacket Project :

y

Research:

 

History of  shirt:

Already around 925 BC The Hebrew women wore a white linen shirt reaching down to the ground. Among the peoples of the West, the shirt was sometimes used as underwear, sometimes as a dress for women and men. Since the 16th century, it is known in the modern way and is used as a day robe. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the button-down high stand-up collar was customary for formal wear. 1863 was invented by the brothers Hönigsberg in Vienna, the semi-rigid shirt collar made of double fabric, which no longer had to be buttoned, but was firmly attached to the shirt. The continuous button placket was introduced to the shirt around 1900  so that the shirt no longer had to be pulled over his head.

Nowadays a distinction is made between the men’s shirt and the woman’s blouse. In men’s shirts, there is the business shirt, which is usually monochrome white or blue or has fine stripes and  is worn to suit and tie, and the casual shirt for leisure. The dress includes the dress and dress shirt. The appearance is strictly regulated, such as. White color, reinforced shirt breast and use of cuff and button buttons . From sportswear comes the short-sleeved polo shirt, which is now widely used in casual wear. A fashion emerging in Europe after the Second World War was the Hawaiian shirt. As original work shirts, flannel shirts are still worn as casual wear today. In the military, the field shirt, a jacket-like, robust, longer shirt, is common. It was not until the beginning of the 20th century that the usual buttoned-up shirt began to prevail. Previously, the shirt was slit only about to the chest and had to be pulled over the head when donning. This form of the so-called slip shirt has kept to this day in various traditional areas, such as the fisherman’s shirt, the Austrian and Bavarian costume shirt or the dress shirt.

THE PARTS OF A SHIRT:

Research: The collar:

Basically, there are two categories of collar shapes: turn-down collar and stand-up collar. The stand-up collar is the older form and is a stiff collar that stands upright around the neck. Well-known representative is the Kläppchenkragen, translated in English this means wing tips collar, which is worn only on festive occasions with tailcoat or tuxedo. Another type is so-called mandarin collar, a short stand-up collar on the Chinese model. The turn-down collar consists of the collar web or collar foot and the upper collar, which is folded down when worn. These parts can be cut separately, or cut in one piece. The turn-down collar is the most common type of collar and it comes in many different shapes:Previously, collars were treated with laundry to maintain their shape. In addition one wore shirts with detachable collar. These had the advantage that they could be washed separately because collars pollute faster than the rest of the shirt. In addition, they could also be strengthened easier. Nowadays, cleaning a shirt is not a big hassle, so the collar and shirt are sewn together.Today, the collar insert keeps the shape stable, so that eliminates the awkward strengths. It can be measured in different strengths,  such would be “very soft”, “soft”, “medium”, “hard”, “very hard”. Additional collar stays inserted into the collar ends reinforce the wings. These are usually made of plastic and glued into the collar or seldom sewn. High-quality shirts also have removable plastic or metal rods, such as tinplate or brass, depending on customer requirements. In contrast, very noble designs can also be made of horn, mother of pearl, fine wood, silver or fossil mammoth ivory. The collar sticks are removed before washing. So the collar tips are spared and the collar sticks are not lost inside the washing machine. They are usually used again after ironing.  The cuffs The cuff is a hand-wide strip of fabric that forms the sleeve end. In addition to the collar, she is one of the most stressed components of the shirt and is reinforced by inserts. It encloses the wrist and can be closed with buttons.Nowaday shirts have two basic forms: the simple and the double cuff. The most common is the sports cuff, a single cuff with attached button. Off-the-peg shirts often have two adjacent buttons so that the wearer can adjust the width to his wrist. Occasionally sport cuffs also have two superimposed buttons that are closed at the same time.Another variant of the simple cuff is the combination cuff. This has a sewed button and opposite buttonholes, so that they can be closed with cufflinks.While single cuffs only get their stiffness through the inserts, double cuffs are handled. The envelope cuff (also Umlegemanschette or French cuff) is twice as long and is folded back once before the button. Cufflinks are used to close.The Neapolitan cuff is a double cuff with two sewed buttons on top of each other. However, the folded part is not completely around the cuff, but leaves the buttons free.Moreover, Dress shirts have simple cuffs without sewed buttons and must be closed with cufflinks.

Research: Yoke/Saddle

The saddle or also referred to as English yoke:

The saddle is the fabric part set in the upper part of the back. It can be executed in one or two parts with a middle seam. In part, it is believed that the two-piece saddle allows a more fuel-efficient cut and the additional seam offers advantages when fitting a tailored shirt. Back part of the shirt  The back piece can be fitted smoothly to the saddle or with folds to allow a little more flexibility. Common are two gussets which lie over the shoulder blades or a middle fold, which can be designed as a crease or box pleate.. In a figure-hugging shirt in addition to a side seaming waistline in the lower back part additionally vertical darts attached, so that the shirt fits snugly

Research: Shirt Hem :

The bottom edge of the shirt closes with a narrow hem, with the seam line rounded to the side seam or with a side slit.

Research: button tape :

There is a great variety of  button strips, possible are smooth strip, attached strip, concealed strip etc.In a men’s shirt, the buttonholes on the left front part are attached.

 

Research: Sleeve:

The sleeve is the part of the shirt that covers the arm. It is possible as a short or long version. Short sleeves go up to about half of the upper arm and end with a hem. The long-sleeved shirt reaches from the shoulder to the wrist and ends with the cuff.   breast pocketsOften shirts have one or two breast pockets. These can be completely open or closed with buttoned flaps. Occasionally, the flap is not completely sewn through, but a small slit is left open, through which you can put a pin or glasses without opening the flap. Some shirts do without the chest pocket. The shirt pocket was only enforced after the vest was abandoned as an everyday garment.

Research: epaulettes:

Uniform shirts often have epaulettes with rank insignia attached. They have also found their way into civilian fashion as a fashionable detail.

 

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The next step was to come up with a concept Idea for my shirt:

Concept:

I was inspired by the very classic model of the mens shirt, partly because I grew up with my father wearing it to work. However especially because this classic version of the shirt is so well known to so many, I thought it would be interesting to alter the state of the shirt in a way that many body types could be able to wear it. I did this by creating panels of string along the shirt so that due to knotting the shirt would not only fit a great variety of body types but would further be customizable to your needs via the knotting, tight or loose. Also I thought it would be interesting to take the mens shirt as a base as it is androgynous which I enjoy and this way it is convenient for both genders to wear it and not as strong at the waist so that both genders as well as a great variety of thin or thick body types can costomize the shirt through the knots.

 

This was the original inspiration image of my dad

 

 

MY designs: (process)

I started refining my design idea and drew out sketches that i felt could be interesting to explore design wise –

 

I ended up using this design in which i created panels upon the shirst with pieces of string so that one could costomize the size of the shirt

 

 

Prototype:

having crafted my pattern I utilized it to create my first prototype formed out of muselin . The main objective was to try out a way in which I could create the knotts in a visual pleasing yet usable way, so I formed this muselin. Within the  prototype, when trying if the knotting technique would work and happily it did, I did not end up being pleases with  the outcome visually of the strings comming straight out of the blouse so I created panels instead for the real fabric creation shirt for a cleaner look.

I then started my making process.

Making process:

First step was to cut out the bodice parts back and front of the shirt out of my material. I used soft white 100% thin cotton material as a fabric (classic shirt material used for tailoring often used for mens shirt )

I then assembled the bodice and executed this by sewing  it together as well as started to cut the remaining items out my  such as cuffs, sleeves, collar,  panels, etc. and  also started the process of assembling these so that I could continue to assemble the full shirt successfully.

I then started fashioning the panels of my knotting. In order to do so, to create a visually pleasing outcome, I cut long thin tubes which I then turned inside out. Next I would stitch along their side to create a clean finished look. This is how I made the “string” knotting parts. I then started to create the collar, by cutting it out and then assembled the pieces, also ironing in a softer iron on interfacinf inside, so tht the collar would be supported. I especially made aure that the corners of the collar were as pointed as possible as I wanted the shirt to look clean and the pointed detail went well with the pointed strings for a harmonious overall appearance of the shirt. I then placed the collar and sewed it into place.   I then places the string panels onto a separate panel, sewing each on separate as I did in the prototype then placing it onto the shirt for greater texture and a more clean finished look. I continued this process until the entire shirt was “knottable”.  Makimg sure all panels were  clean finished. Once I had done that I set in the sleeve  with the cuff.

Next I added button holes in the front panel and on the cuff, and lso hand stitched on the buttons to close the shirt. I chose to use small buttons so they would not distract drom the strinks amd knots of the overall design so it looks minimalist but still visually interesting and would work visually successfully.

Finished shirt:

The finished shirt was ended up looking fabulous and I was very pleased as it truly knotted well costumized around the body shapes. I actually liked it so much that I ended up creating a phototahoot with my friend to capture the shirt on her .

Finished fotoshoot with shirt

 

 

 

Quilting and Patchwork: research: 

 

Interesting ptterns:

how to cut accurately: the stuff we need 

 

 

 

Idea: pattern just made of these :

 

 

a lot of these twirling  squares – but made from manipulated fabric- inspired by art quilting:

using own manipulation like this:

 

 

inspiration pictures (patchwork)

 

samples: